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Rome

Roma, non basta una vita!

Fond Memories

Complete Index of Articles on Rome/Italy

"But we went there on our last trip overseas; shouldn't we go somewhere else this time?" So went Julie's thought about my idea of returning to Rome for our European vacation that summer.

I had been to Rome many times before our first Transatlantic adventure together. We were young lovers, and, I in love almost as much with Rome as with Julie, had wanted the excitement and pleasure of showing off 'my' city to my sweetheart. Only a few days snatched from a busy schedule, but what a heady and exciting time we had. And, thank heavens, Julie had seemed to fall in love with Rome too.

Julie was introduced to the city in my favorite way, taking her at night from the Piazza Venezia, up the Cordonata towered over by Castor and Pollux, across Michaelangelo's beautiful courtyard, behind the Palazzo Senatoro set atop the 1600 year-old foundations of the Tabularium, onto the perch overlooking the floodlighted Roman Forum, the outline of the moonlit Colosseum rising as a backdrop.

It's a treat few get to see, reserved, in my case, for only very special people. And, in a way, a test. Not everyone comes to love Rome. Fail to be moved by this sight, and you'll be among those who cast your affections elsewhere. Drink deeply of the romance of the ghosts swirling about in the dark -- Marius, Sulla, Caesar, Hadrian, Trajan and Augustus -- and you'll never be quite the same.

Directly below you'll find all the resources you need to start planning your trip. More questions? More information below the resource listing.

From Ed and Julie

  • Undecided about visiting Rome? Here are some Q and As to help entice you to visit this wonderland of art, architecture, history and food.
  • Rome Sights -- an extensive collection of walks and sights about the city.
  • Rome with Kids
  • Rome Safety -- questions of safety are much overblown.
  • Rome Food and Restaurants -- a principal reason for visiting the city.
  • Hotel Selection in Rome -- if you've not been to Rome before (and especially if you've had little or no European travel experience) here are some tips on choosing a hotel.
  • Rome Hotels -- Our recommendations, and selected choices from others.
  • Rome Tips -- Insights from Ed and Julie and others that you won't find elsewhere.
  • Practical Matters - Currency, weather, language and more.
  • Reading List - Our recommendations of the best guidebooks and backgrounders to help you enjoy your visit more.
  • The "August Myth" ... have you heard you shouldn't visit Rome in August? Nonsense!
  • And of course, Our Best of Rome - E & J's Rome home page.
  • Underground Rome - It's not surprising that a city that's been building on top of itself for a few thousand years would have a few interesting places hidden from the sun.

From Contributors to TWEJ

  • Rome on Wheels --Walking or humming along in a wheelchair, this is a great city, either way.
  • Last Tango -- More than sights and food, Rome is full of experiences. -- Let your heart listen.
  • Aloha Rome -- A charming after-visit report on the eternal city.
  • "Roman" Obelisks -- You'll see them all over the city. Most are older than almost all else in Rome; here's their history.
  • Observations of a First-Timer in Italy A must for newcomers to Italy, seasoned veterans will enjoy a new look at old sights ... some of which you may have missed.
  • Rome's Neighborhood Fountains
  • Our Trip to Rome The experiences of a family of four in a rented apartment in Rome, including their insights on many of the more memorable of the city's sights.
  • Venice -- A marvelous city in which to wander about.
  • Orvieto -- A tour of this charming, historic, hilltop town, a short day trip from Rome.
  • 10 Secrets -- Want the inside scoop on the best places in Italy most Americans miss?
  • Ciao, Miaou - Claudio's Story The cats of Rome's ruins are almost worth a trip themselves. Here's one who's made the journey the other way.
  • Tips and Tricks in Selecting a Hotel in Rome You'll find more help on dealing with Roman hotels here, along with three excellent values taken from a book that we recommend highly.
  • Rome and Naples in 5 Days
    A charming, and informative, account of how two newcomers to Rome planned and executed their brief visit. Long-time visitors like us to Rome should be so organized!
  • Have Scooter, Will Travel ... to Rome by train Jann did not expect Europe to be as accessible as it is in most places in the US.  After all, Rome is an ancient city, and cobblestones and steps are everywhere.  But, what she needed and got was reasonable accommodation. You don't have to give up travel if you lose some of your mobility.

The Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's. The cradle of Western civilization, much still evident. A sidewalk cafe. Sun-faded pastel buildings glowing in the late afternoon. Lovers strolling arm-in-arm. The Colosseum and the Pantheon. There is nowhere else in the West that brings all these wonders together so intimately ... only in Rome. And, finally, the food. If you think you know Italian food, but haven't eaten in Italy, you're in for a wonderful treat.

If you seek the source of much of our language, literature, art, architecture, governments and habits, you must see Rome. Rome sports the reminders of 2,700 years of continuous human habitation. Through the grime and bustle of a modern, crowded city, there's a special aura over walls that have seen 135 generations of the great and humble.

We've visited Rome often over more than 30 years. We invite you to experience the enjoyment and wonder we've found. A Personal Visit to Rome can only scratch the surface of what you should know about Rome. Hopefully, what we've learned over the years will help you enjoy your trip more. Although it may be the best site on the 'net for travelers to Rome.

When should we go to Rome?

Now! -- as soon as possible, for as long as possible! It's a wonderful country.

What time of year should we go to Rome?

Always nicer April through October. Early October's our favorite, followed by end-May, September and mid-April to mid-May. Crowded in July and August, but if that's all you can manage, go!

Which cities in Italy should we visit? How long a trip?

Depends on the time you have. Figure out what you want to see, and match that against time.

Rome is the starting point. We suggest at least four full days (five nights), but two is better than no days at all. Two weeks would pass by quickly.

Florence at least two days, though we (somewhat regretfully -- not enough time) have done it in day trips from Rome.

Pompeii (or Herculaneum) if you can (a long day trip from Rome). Venice probably, though as much as we love Italy, we've never caught on to Venice personally. (Figure at least two, possibly four days.) Sienna, possibly. Umbria/Lazio hill towns. Many say the Italian Riviera (Cinque Terre an inexpensive way to do it.) Amalfi Drive and Capri lovely though overrated.

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It's really a combination of budget and interests. Four full  days is a minimum for a complete sample of all Rome has to offer.

Airfares are relatively cheap in our view compared to ground costs, though that's a minority opinion and may reflect the way we spend money on the ground. Don't try to cram everything in to a two week trip if you think you may have the option of a week now and a week or more later in life. If you think it's once now and never again, you could probably pack it down as tight as 10 days and see a lot of Italy. But again, going for whatever length is better than not going.

Which hotels in Rome are reasonable?

None! It is an expensive country. Many get by for $50-$75 per night in Rome, though we're not comfortable with hotels below $100 per night. It takes $150 a night for a double resembling a $50 a night Quality Inn in the US mid-west. (Convents (particularly in Rome) can be an attractive option.. Usually clean, pleasant, hard to get information about.)

How much Italian do I need to learn to enjoy a visit to Rome?

None, really, but whatever you can pick up will help more there than many other West European countries. At the least, pick up a phrase book a couple of months before you go and spend some time with it. The more off the mainstream you go, and the more inexpensive the restaurants and hotels, the more at least some Italian becomes helpful. Italians are almost as mono-lingual as Americans.

You don't need any Italian to stay in a $400/night hotel and eat a $200 meal! You'll enjoy yourself more and enjoy the food more below that level, the more Italian you know. But entire sentences aren't necessary -- words/phrases/sign language and knowing the names of menu items and dishes are very helpful.

In any event, we've always found most Italians quite helpful and considerate. Learn to say "Prego" ('praygo '- please) and "Grazie" ('grahtsiay' - thank you) and together with a smile you'll get around Italy -- and particularly Rome -- just fine.

Money is tight, so how can we have a great time in a capitol city like Rome on a limited budget?

Well, like anything else, more money can help you enjoy yourself more, but doesn't guarantee satisfaction. We know people that spend $400 a night for a hotel but never get 'into' the places they visit.

Money can sometimes be an impediment While you want your hotel clean and conveniently located, if you're out seeing the sights the size doesn't matter. Take a simple Italian style breakfast, eat picnics for lunch, and save your food dollars for the evening meal and the wonderful Italian foods. (Save one of the rolls or slices of wonderful bread from dinner (you've probably paid for it anyway!) and have that for breakfast with a $2 cup of coffee at a local 'bar' (presuming your hotel doesn't include breakfast -- and if it's inexpensive it may not.)

In Rome, in particular, walking is cheap and easy. The important parts of the city are compactly located.

How do we get started planning a European trip that includes Rome?

Take a look at A Personal Visit To Rome; see if it gets you thinking about starting your European adventures in Italy. You'll find even more information on the Net from Rick Steves, Lonely Planet and Fodors. (More into scenic beauty and a quiet, well-run country? Scan A Personal Visit To Switzerland.)

If you've not traveled to Europe before we recommend also reading Steves' Europe Through the Back Door. We don't subscribe to his recommendations for skimming through Europe quickly. We personally like getting to know a few things very well. But in any event, ETBD is an excellent primer in how to visit Europe, how to get around, how to get into the culture, how not to be an 'Ugly American', and how to do all this on a limited budget ($60 per day per person, plus travel and incidentals.)

Figure out what you and your companion(s) are interested in. Then take your knowledge and your wish list and visit your friendly, knowledgeable travel agent. You'll find it's easy to begin a lifetime of adventures.

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