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Italy's Ten Best Secrets
by Howard Isaacs

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First, of course, there are no real secrets in Italy, certainly not to the Italians or the Germans, both indefatigable explorers of every corner of the country. North Americans, though, tend to be a timid lot, going only where others have gone before--close friends, preferably.

That said, below are some of my favorite, less-known places in Italy:

1) The island of Ponza, reached from Formia, midway between Napoli and Roma. What Capri must have been like in the 50s.

2) Oropa, a monastery high above Biella in Piemonte. Drop-dead views, great, inexpensive accommodations, restaurants, and ATM built into a 16th century portal, skiing in winter, polenta concia and, if you're lucky, a peasant outside the gates selling fresh Toma cheese.

3) Abruzzo--just about all of it, but particularly the mountainous interior, including L'Aquila, Atri (the only place the Renaissance really hit home) and, farther south, Guardiagrele, near Chieti (and the archeological museum in Chieti).

4) Friuli Venezia Giulia: just about all of it, but particularly the mountainous interior (sense a theme?). I'd also like to get back to Tolmezzo and points north, to Passariano and to dine (and stay a week) at La Subida in Cormons.

5) Lazio: a lot more to the region than Roma. I want to stay again at Azienda Axel, on top of the world over Lago di Bracciano, go swim in the hot waters of the terme below the walls of Viterbo and have the time to properly explore Tuscania and all the other Etruscan and other pre-Roman towns.

6) Torino: just not on the radar for N. Americans. A shame. Great restaurants, great museums--a civilized metropolis.

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7) Rieti: in Lazio--amazing bollito misto at the Calice d'Oro. Nice little town (and the geographical center of Italy, so they claim).

8) Palinuro and the Golfo di Policastro: unspoiled coastline below Salerno up to the Calabria border. And much to discover in the interior Cilento area, now a protected zone.

9) Casertavecchia: the picturesque old town above the royal palace at Caserta, near Napoli. Don't miss the church. Don't miss a meal.

10) Arezzo: While Tuscany is overrun with tourists eager for Siena, Firenze and Chiantishire, Arezzo, with Vasari's fabulous arcaded piazza, Vasari's house and a wonderful art museum (with 'Ahashuerus' Wedding Feast'--by Vasari) lies undiscovered. Too bad.

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Copyright © 1997 The Italian Traveler

Mr. Isaacs is the Editor and Publisher of The Italian Traveler. The Italian Traveler is an 8-page newsletter, published 11 times each year.

"Since 1988, we have been reviewing hotels and restaurants, suggesting itineraries and providing shopping and travel tips under headings such as Times Roman, La Strada, La Dolce Vita, Great Cities, etc. All of these are obtained by first-hand, anonymous research, i.e., we actually stay in a hotel, paying our own way, before we write about it.

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