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The Experiences of a Family of Four Living in an Apartment in Rome for One Weekby Stuart and Gail GittlitzMy wife and I had visited Italy 20 years ago. It was certainly time for a return visit. We wanted to share our appreciation for Italy with our two children, aged 11 and 14. We picked an escorted tour that took us to all the places we wanted to see; but the tour never allowed time enough to feel part of any one place. We decided to arrive in Rome a week before the tour began. That way, we would have the chance to become reacquainted with Rome and Italy without being rushed around on a group tour schedule. Apartment vs. Hotel We looked at prices of hotel rooms in central Rome. Many were affordable but did not allow four people into one room. Three, yes. Not four. So, the price for a hotel would require two rooms. We believed that for that price or less we should be able to find a two bedroom apartment with kitchen facilities. We were thinking in terms of a Residence Inn, Rome style. The Search for an Apartment Our travel agent told us we would never be able to find an apartment in central Rome. She suggested that minimum stays would be two weeks or more. She said the price would be far more than we would want to pay. However, she agreed to make a limited search for us on the internet. Within a short time she found an apartment meeting all our requirements, but not hers. The apartment renters would not pay a travel agent’s commission. So, she told us to get in touch with the people at Roman Homes. We were on our own. Wiring Lire to Italy for a Rental Deposit We soon received an E-Mail from Roman Homes providing all the details about the apartment rental. The apartment would be ours for one week beginning Saturday, July 3. All we had to do was E-Mail our acceptance and send half the rent ($750) in Lire within 5 days. The E-Mail included detailed instructions on how to wire Lire from our home bank to a bank in New York to a bank in Italy. This was a time to be nervous. Here we were wiring $750 to someone we didn’t know in a foreign country. An Ongoing E-Mail Relationship An E-Mail from Roman Homes told us that our transferred funds had arrived. We were all set. As July 3 became closer, we had daily exchanges of E-Mail referring to details of our arrival. We were asked to call from the airport so that someone could meet us at the apartment. One E-Mail contained a letter in Italian to give to our taxi driver so that he could find the apartment. Arrival at the Rome Airport We arrived in Rome almost on schedule. We retrieved our baggage. Now we had to telephone. In Italy, telephones require a phone card, normally sold in Tobacco Shops. So where is a Tobacco Shop in the airport? An attendant at an information desk pointed to a machine that sold phone cards. We couldn’t figure out how to make it work. Finally, we found that a cashier in the restaurant sold phone cards. So, we called Roman Homes and let them know we were on our way from the airport. |
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Taxi to Rome We had heard about several different trains and busses that could take us from the airport to Rome. But, it just didn’t make sense to drag the whole family and luggage around trying to find the right train. So we decided to splurge on a taxi. The concern was that taxis in Rome are quite small. Would a taxi hold all four of us, our luggage, and carry-on? Thankfully, the answer was yes. Everything and everyone fit. The driver was given the driving instructions in Italian. After a 35 minute drive in next to no traffic, we were at the apartment. The drivers’ request for 70,000 Lire was far less than what we expected. Orientation We were welcomed into the apartment. A representative of Roman Homes showed us how to operate the appliances. Nothing works the same as the US. Instruction was definitely needed. We were told where to find the nearest vegetable and meat markets. Then, we were given a brief overview of what to see in Rome. Roman Homes had made reservations for us to see Nero’s House, the Domus Aurea. Since only 25 people are allowed in at one time, reservations had been pre-booked far in advance. Thanks to Roman Homes, we would be one of the first people to tour Nero’s Home in almost 20 years. Life in an Apartment There were two bedrooms. Two bathrooms. One television. Since the television programs were all in Italian, one television set was enough. The windows had ventilated wood shutters that could be locked closed. Additional glass shutters could be used to close the windows. But it was summer, so the glass shutters were not used. At night, the outside air cools down. With the fans supplied in the apartment, it was comfortable enough to sleep. The only problem was the noise from the street. Central Rome is very popular. So, between motor scooters, loud conversations, restaurant patrons, tourists, and a variety of unusual occurrences, quiet was not available. Being located in a Central location was a major benefit. We could reach most of Rome’s attractions within a 12 minute walk. Only the Colosseum was out of easy walking distance. With all the construction and traffic, it actually is far easier to walk than other modes of transportation.We would do sightseeing for a few hours and then come back to the apartment for rest or a siesta. A refrigerator stocked with cold drinks always provided a respite from sightseeing. Eating Out vs. Eating In At first, we went out to dinner each evening. It was wonderful sitting outside in the cool air. But there were also disagreements. Dinner typically took 2 or more hours. So, we wouldn’t get back to the apartment until past 10:30. The children complained that it was difficult to get to sleep right after dinner. Since we were also sightseeing early in the day to avoid the heat of the afternoon, the kids were not happy with the time available to sleep. Additionally, eating out required everyone to be together for an extended period of time. If someone only wanted a salad and pasta, they had to wait for the others to finish the other courses. Boredom at dinner time was causing friction. So, we began to eat at the apartment. We bought our food fresh each morning at the Campo de Fiori. Items not sold at the market were picked up at the supermarket at Via d. Monte del Farina. Now here’s the surprise. When we cooked up the fresh vegetables and meat, it was one of the greatest meals we had ever had in our lives. What a delight! The food was far superior to what was being served in the restaurants at only a fraction of the cost. Everyone was able to finish dinner in a reasonable period of time. We continued to have the pleasure of dinners in the apartment until we had to join the group tour. Even with the noise, a week in the apartment helped make our trip to Rome a very special event. We would certainly consider doing it again. Brief Comments on Sightseeing Attractions: Colosseum and Roman Forum These are mentioned together because “Walks of Rome” provided a wonderful tour of each. They provide a “free” tour to those coming into the Colosseum. Then, for 25,000 Lire, they offer tours of the Forum at 1 PM and 5 PM. Both tours were excellent, but, the tour of the Forum became one of the top highlights of the trip. Our tour was conducted by an Australian lady named Bronte. As she took us through the Forum, she made it become alive before our eyes. Including history, anecdotes, and philosophy, she helped us see the ruins in front of us as it once was: a city filled with people 2000 years ago. Then, Bronte recounted the events leading to the death of Julius Caesar. She described the funeral. Then, right in the middle of the Forum, where it happened, she recited Shakespeare’s speech for Marc Anthony at Caesar’s funeral. Tours do not get any better than this. Magical is only way to describe it. E-Mail: walkingtours@yahoo.com; telephone 0347-795-5175 Basilica di San Clemente This is an amazing tour. More than just a beautiful 12th century church, San Clemente also includes the remains of a 4th century basilica underneath. And underneath all that is Roman Street from the time of Nero’s Fire. There’s a pagan temple and buildings along the street. We toured San Clemente with the help of Alessandro Merra from Genti e Paesi Walking Tours. We had paid 20,000 Lire each for the tour. Alessandro provided a detailed and fascinating description of each of the many areas of the church and historical remnants. His appreciation of the beautiful mosaics and frescos helped us realize how magnificent it was to see this church in such fine condition. E-Mail: ilsogno@romeguide.it; telephone 39/06/85.30.17.55 Vatican Museum The museum opens at 8:45 AM. We arrived by taxi at 8:10 and there was a huge line with hoards of people joining every second. We ran to join the end of the line. But, the good news was that the line was moving. When we arrived at the front, we saw the small sign that said it was for tour groups only. Individuals had a line forming to the left of the entrance. Avoid doing what we did. Go to the line on the left. Catacombs We visited two catacombs: Catacombe di S. Callisto and Catacombe di S. Sebastiano. It is not easy to get there. We took a taxi and had it wait for us. There probably is a less expensive way but we couldn’t find it. There is so much history in each location, it is worthwhile visiting more than one site. The big surprise for us was that the remains of the early Christians have all been removed from the Catacombs. They were removed as recently as the 1970’s because tourists were taking home small bits as souvenirs. Domus Aurea Except for tiny reminders of frescos and mosaic, there is not much decoration left here. The thrill is being able to walk through the remains of Nero’s Golden House. With a little imagination, we could envision the grandeur. The octagonal hall can not be captured in pictures. It is an experience just to be there. We combined the visit to the Domus Aurea with a visit to the Castle S. Angelo the same day. It was helpful because the Castle S. Angelo decorations were similar to the remnants we had seen at the Domus Aurea. It helped us fully appreciate the Golden House. Ostia Antica We didn’t exactly get lost taking the Metro and rail to Ostia Antica. However, the official directions say to change from Metro Line B to the Rail. But we didn’t know that the change required going to a different platform .We were looking for a nearby rail line in the neighborhood. Then we figured it out. The visit to Ostia Antica is definitely worth the effort. A guide would have helped, but we still had quite a time exploring by ourselves. A word of warning. We ate lunch in the nearby town of Ostia. The one restaurant in town added 10,000 Lire to every item we ordered. Talk about padding the bill. We had no choice but to pay it. But, now you know. Borghese Gallery The three statues by Gian Lorenzo Bernini are worth the trip to Rome. The museum had been closed when we were here last. We had no idea what we had missed. The Worst Tour in Rome The walking tour called "The Ghosts of Rome" was scheduled for 9 PM Saturday night, beginning in the Piazza Navona. We met our guide who brought along her boyfriend. She told us a ghost story about the Piazza Navona. It seems that the obelisk was the source of many problems. When it was installed, there were spirits coming from it that terrorized the area. The people asked the Church for help. A ceremony was performed that exorcised the ghosts. Moving to the Pantheon, we heard a story about the obelisk at the Pantheon causing havoc because it was inhabited by ghosts. We were told to notice the sloping ground caused by the footsteps of the Devil. Again, the church had solved the problem by exorcising the sprits. At the Spanish Steps we found the obelisk there had a similar story. Again to the Piazza del Popolo for a similar story read from the back of an envelope by our guide. By this time it was past 10PM, and our feet were beginning to get tired. I asked what was planned for the rest of the walk. Our guide said she was going to walk to the Castel S. Angelo for a story and then to the Campo de Fiori for a story. I persuaded her to tell us the stories where we were. The stories were no better than the previous ones. At least we hadn't walked for miles to hear them. I would have guessed that a walking tour at night in Rome would be a great opportunity for ghost stories. Our guides in England certainly knew how to tell tales that would keep us up for a while. But in Rome, the opportunity remains unfulfilled for the time being. Scaffolding In 1999, we saw plenty of scaffolding. Almost every church and antiquity had scaffolding somewhere. The most amazing sight was entering the colonnade at St. Peter’s to see the Basilica totally covered by scaffolding. The children were delighted because they felt we were seeing a once in a lifetime view. They could always come back later and see it without scaffolding. So, sorry to all those coming to Rome in 2000. You will be too late for the scaffolding. Copyright © 1999 Stuart &
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