Logo & Links: See Page Bottom - Traveling With Ed and Julie - Visiting Rome, Italy, Restaurants, Food, Picnics, Breakfast, Dinner, Courses, Meats, Vegetables, Salads, Pastas, Soups, Deserts

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Rome

Roma, non basta una vita!

Food and Restaurants

Roman Food | Breakfast | Picnics | About Restaurants
Main Meals | Feeding Kids | Our Restaurants
Other Restaurants | The Frugal Gourmet Recommends

Complete Index of Articles on Rome/Italy

The number 2 Roman attraction! Seriously, Italian food as prepared in Italy is spectacularly delicious. Even if you (think you) don't like Italian food, it's worth the trip to find out how much you'll like real Italian food.

So much of what we find in the States is far removed from the real thing . If you've not eaten in Italy you really can't grasp just how fine is the real thing. We've enjoyed the food in Rome as much or more than anything else there.

We've cooked up a lot of information we think you'll enjoy about how the Romans eat, what they eat and where they (and you) eat. If you return from your trip feeling we've understated how good Italian cuisine is, you won't be the first!

If you'd like to sample our idea of good Italian food before you go, you might want to try a few of our favorite recipes ... none difficult  to prepare.

Italian food ... for most Americans ... means heavy tomato sauces and an excess of garlic, oregano and red pepper. This style is largely based on a (somewhat faulty) recollection of southern Italian (e.g. Naples, Sicily) cooking.

In contrast, you may be surprised to learn that many objective observers believe the 'haute cuisine' of France evolved from Italian instruction. In any event, you're in for a treat at every lunch and dinner in Rome.

Rome is centrally located in Italy, and its cooking reflects northern and southern influences. As well, there are a number of restaurants specializing in the foods of a particular region. Take the opportunity to gain as wide a variety of experiences as possible.

Breakfast

An important meal to most Americans, less so for southern Europeans and Italians. A carafe of coffee (or tea or chocolate), usually with milk (caffee latte), and a roll (usually a brioche, though croissants are common in pricier hotels).

As a rule no juice, eggs, or bacon. (Though still few in number, more and more hotels are adding 'American-style' buffet breakfasts as a standard inclusion in the room rate.)

In upscale hotels juice, eggs and bacon are available, at a price. Continental breakfast at USD20 is common in 5-star hotels, with eggs and bacon added commanding a price of USD35! Julice may or may not be extra.

Picnics

These are useful, as well as enjoyable in good weather, to reduce meal costs or extend your day at places without food service like the Forum/Palatine or Ostia Antica. And don't be afraid at other times to picnic on your bed in your room ... it's a dandy, occasional  idea if you're running tight on your budget.

You'll find some general groceries (alimentari, or, literally 'foods, or food stores) at which you can purchase some or all of your needs. Alimentari carry a range of goods (including laundry soap, for example) but are usually small.

Often, though, you'll need to visit several shops: the salumeria (sausage shop), frutteria (fruit shop), cheese shop, bakery, and so forth. One or more of these will usually sell bottled water and other beverages as well. Part of the joy of an Italian picnic is assembling the ingredients.

And in most cases you'll be overwhelmed by the variety of choices, and the quality. Americans are accustomed to one type of salami, perhaps two, prepackaged. If you're indecisive you'll never get out of the salumeria given the choices of 'salami' you'll find. Note that 'salami' is a particular kind sausage (somewhat differing  between regions.) 'Salume', on the other hand, is the collective term for  all the various sausages.

 Since Italian cooking is based on fresh food, the custom for cooks is two trips to the store for lunch and dinner. You'll find, therefor, varied opening hours. Alimentari often are open only late in the morning and late in the afternoon. Some specialty stores are open all day, as are the occasional equivalent of a delicatessen where you can buy most everything except perhaps the fruit.

Your hotel personnel will be able to tell you where the nearest stores are. You'll rarely have to go more than 2-3 blocks. Do check on the hours though ... picnics usually require purchase the preceding afternoon if you'll be leaving before mid-morning.

'Un etto' (a hectogram - 100 grams) will get you almost 4 ounces of meat or cheese. 'Un quarto' gets you more than twice as much (250 grams), enough for two sandwiches. If you're unsure of quantities you may find a peek at European Weights and Measures of interest.

Picnics (whether for the park or for back in the room) often take a few stops to put together. The effort is repaid by the quality, and the opportunity to do as the Romans do.

Image Map - Use Links in Text

Image Map - Use Links in Text

Dining, Whether Lunch or Dinner

As thoughout much of the world Italians more often than not eat their largest meal at lunch time and a much smaller 'supper' in the evening. If, like Ed and Julie, you enjoy Roman food so much that you have two or three courses at lunch and dinner, you're asking for weight problems.  smile.gif (93 bytes)  But we figure we enjoy the food so much it's worth a bit of hard dieting when we get home.

About Restaurants

The title of a 'restaurant' may give some notion of the price range:
BulletRistorante are usually the most expensive, though occasionally you'll find a modestly-named establishment with delusions of grandeur.
BulletTrattorie are generally medium-priced, though some are quite upscale.
BulletOsterie ('hostelry') would have been fairly humble establishments in the past; some continue to be economical, some at the top of the price scale.
BulletA Taverna is a lower-priced trattoria.
BulletPizzerie are what you'd guess.
BulletTavola Calda, 'hot table', suggests a steam table. You may see the sign at a bar or caffe, or as a stand-alone as the name of what we'd call a cafeteria. They're usually inexpensive.
BulletBars and Caffes are generally places for a 'coffee break', with the bars typically  more elaborate than caffes. Do not think of a bar (or cafe) in the American sense. You'll generally find most patrons drinking coffee, eating rolls or sandwiches, and so forth. They do, however, serve alcoholic beverages, ranging from polite aperitifs through strong liquor and after-dinner drinks. Either bar or caffee may have sandwiches (panini e toasts).

Your neighborhood bar or caffe is often the best choice for a 'continental' breakfast. If your hotel or pension does serve breakfast (most do) for a separate charge the nearest bar or caffe will be a much more economical choice, and more fun. Lowest prices if you stand at a tall table, higer if you sit at a low table.

Restaurants are open for lunch from Noon to 2:30p.m., roughly. Some open as late as 1:00, not closing until 3:30. You can't eat a restaurant lunch either early or late. Restaurants reopen for dinner at perhaps 7:30p.m. - you may find some opening at 7p.m., and many not until 8p.m. or 8:30p.m.. Bars and sandwich shops are open most of the day.

Children on tour get bored eating always in restaurants, particularly twice a day. They'll enjoy occasionally selecting their own sandwich in the cooler case in a caffe by pointing and saying "quello". Pasta's almost always fun for kids, and of course pizza's a favorite.

Pizzarias (look for a 'rustica' sign) often sell pizza by the slice; point to your favorite and say "due centi grammi" for a big 7 ounce slice, or "un etto" for a smaller 4 ounce slice. They'll warm it up and your kids will be eating in just minutes. A good antipasto table can be fun for youngsters, with the variety and the opportunity to see new foods, and select what interests them. The table at La Rampa is quite extensive and of high quality. Kids usually enjoy picnics, and then there's MacDonald's.

We don't suggest fast food in Europe for adults, but it can be an occasional treat for kids. MacDonald's in Rome on via Due Macelli (Two Butchers Street) just off from the Piazza di Spagna is the second largest in the world (Moscow is #1.) You'll find others in town as well. All usually have clean (relatively) restrooms and won't usually mind non-customers using them.

It is customary in bars, caffes, and ice-cream shops (gelaterie) to go to the cashier first. Tell them what you want; pay; take your receipt to the counter and repeat your order, showing the receipt (which they should tear to indicate it's no longer valid.)

Why this system? Possibly sanitation. Perhaps they have little trust in their fellow Italians. Or, they've ingeniously devised a way for travelers to practice pantomime and Italian skills. (Fortunately, they're usually helpful, at least when not busy.)

Most restaurants impose a (small) cover charge (coperto), often also including a bread charge (in which case: coperto e pane.) Prices include IVA (value added tax). Menu prices don't include service (servizio), but something like 17% will be added to your bill. Of course, you needn't tip (though it's customary to 'round up' when paying (no more than 5%.))

There are many small neighborhood restaurants in which you can eat economically (pizza at the least.) Those tend to be away (at least by a street, sometimes by more) from the tourist streets and areas. W've had no bad meals in Italy. (Though try to avoid the Vatican cafeteria.)

You're likely to find, at most any restaurant, a meal that's at least satisfactory, regardless of the price you pay. It will likely be tasty. Italians respect food.

As with sightseeing, eating takes planning. Most restaurants close one day a week. No one day is more common.

Lunch or Dinner ... Will it be Primo, Secondo and Contorni?
Please 'turn' to page 2 for more ...
a description of a main meal.

Recommended Restaurants

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