Rome on Wheels
by Claudia Young

OK -- So you hear it from everyone. Rome is the worst city in the world for wheelchairs.

Traffic, cobblestones, inaccessibility for the obvious reasons of old age (not you, the city), not to mention the general chaotic pulse of this amazing place. Then you make your decision to go there anyway.

After all, we're talking Rome here. Ancient ruins, unbelievable architecture, the best food in the world, not to mention the shopping! Hey, I braved NYC in a chair for years. I can do this.

Well, I'm back from my trip and here to say that it was wonderful. Wheelchair or not, Rome is a "don't miss" on your travel destination wish list. It is truly awe inspiring.

I stayed at a perfect little hotel where the accessibility was an A+, the location by the Pantheon couldn't have been better, the front desk was kind and helpful and the price was good. This is taking into consideration that Rome and all major city hotels are generally expensive.

The Santa Chiara Hotel was a true find. I recommend it highly. The rate is approximately L320,000 ('97) for a double and the room has two large bathrooms, one being a somewhat high tech Euro wheelchair design. Speaking from experience, be careful not to drench the toilet paper while you shower. Those hosey hand held things can sometimes have a mind of their own.

As most big cities are, Rome is a 'walking' town. Pneumatic wheels are a must or the streets will be too hard on you and your chair.

People walk everywhere in Rome, literally, so don't worry about sticking to the sidewalks. Cars are cautious of pedestrians, and I'm always under the assumption that they'd just as soon not plow down someone in a wheelchair. I could be wrong.

Everyone in a chair has various levels of function so the amount of assistance needed will vary from person to person. I have a lightweight manual chair and can get around fairly well, but for steep inclines and ultra bumpy surfaces I need help. And help I got.

After spending countless hours of research at the computer (thanks to my dismally slow 28.8 modem) and sending out various e-mails, I hooked up with a few great finds.

The first was Carlo. (Referred by Scala Reale, an excellent source of English-language tours in Rome.) He's a 26 year old university student who agreed to meet me at my hotel at 10am and just walk with me.

The day was magnificent and he was a delight. An opinionated, argumentative Italian guy with a great attitude! We talked of life and love as he wheeled me through The Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori and The Jewish Ghetto as well as to the top of the City Hall, that magnificent centerpiece of Rome. When he brought me back to my hotel we parted as good friends and he was hesitant to take the L50,000 I gave him.

Then came Alfredo. I found him from a posting on a bulletin board on America On Line. he came recommended by Howard Isaacs editor of The Italian Traveler.

Alfredo is a driver in Rome, which in itself is no small feat. He speaks English fluently and drives you all through the city giving you informative historical insight as you go.

He parked the car and took me to American Express to exchange travelers' checks and then he drove me to a residential part of town where he swore by the gelato. We sauntered down the famous section of Rome known for it's wonderful antiques (Via dei Coronari) which is closed off to cars and then he took me to some shops to find inexpensive, trendy clothing to bring home for my 16 year old daughter.

This man is a gem. When we parted I felt like I was saying goodbye to a newly discovered long lost relative. Alfredo ... when will we see each other again?

Regarding the 'main attractions' of Rome, all that I visited were doable. The phrase is "sedia a rotella" and it means wheelchair. Say it to someone who looks like they could help you, while throwing your hands in the air Italian style and appear somewhat perplexed. This often produced positive results. There was always a way of working out the barriers and everyone was quite helpful.

Call me shameless, but if all else fails I have no qualms about going to the head of the line. Yes, even those all day-lines. Those mile long lines. Just smile big, and cut right in. Blame it on me.

In my heart of hearts I believe Rome tries to reach out to her visitors in chairs, doing as good a job, if not better, than one could expect. Now those hill towns... that was a true challenge, making Rome look like a stroll down 5th Avenue!!!

Note: Hotel Santa Chiara -- well-located near the Pantheon
Via di Santa Chiara 21
Tel. 011-39-6-687-2979
Fax: 687-3144)

Copyright © 1997 Claudia Young
Last Revision April 2, 2001

Claudia Young was born and raised in NYC and has lived in Australia, Hawaii and Florida. She and husband Bob live in Nashville with their teenage daughter Lauren, James and Merle, their Burmese cats, and the latest family member, Rusty, the bulldog. Claudia promises another article after their adventure this fall with Tuscan farmhouse living. Stay tuned.

You'll find a list of Internet sources for differently-abled travelers on our links page, and you'll likely enjoy Rome in a Scooter.

Questions for the author? csyoung@home.com

Would you like to add an article about your travel experiences in Europe? It's easy to do.

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