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Orvieto
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By the way, don't expect to see the famous relic during a casual visit to the cathedral. It is shown to the public only twice each year, on Easter afternoon and on Corpus Christi. One may see the reliquary, itself one of the most impressive works of art in the cathedral, which holds the cloth. Leaving the cathedral, walk westward through the narrow, winding streets-- be careful of the low arches--stopping at shops along the way. Orvieto has been famous for its pottery since the thirteenth century and lately has enjoyed a resurgence in ceramics as artistic expression. Find your way to the Piazza della Repubblica. On one side of the pretty little square is the sixteenth-century Palazzo Comunale, the town hall. Adjacent is the Church of St. Andrea. Reputedly established in the sixth century atop the ruins of an Etruscan temple, the church served as a seat and meeting hall of Orvieto during its republican era. The present building dates from the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Pope Innocent III in 1216 announced the Fourth Crusade here. On leaving St. Andrea, turn right into the Corso Cavour, one of the most interesting streets in the town, lined with shops and historic buildings. After walking about three blocks, turn left to reach the Piazza del Popolo. The piazza is dominated by the exquisite Romanesque-Gothic Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo. Built of soft tufa stone in the mid-twelfth century as a papal palace, it was later given to the republic to house the Captain of the People. The mullioned-triple arched windows are particularly interesting. A colorful market is held in the piazza on Thursday and Saturday mornings. Return to the Corso Cavour now and stroll down the hill to the Piazza Cahen. Walk across the piazza where you will see the ruins of an Etruscan temple and the Pozzo di San Patrizio, St. Patrick's Well. The well was built on the orders of Pope Clement VII in the early sixteenth century. The pope had fled Rome during the sacking in 1527 and had established his residence in Orvieto. The well was intended to provide fresh water if the hilltop town were besieged. To reach the level of the water, one must descend one of two non- communicating staircases about 205 feet. Built into the wall of the well, the staircases are illuminated by seventy windows and are sufficiently wide and gradual for pack animals to make the descent. As you leave Orvieto, take time to visit the Croce del Tufo, an Etruscan cemetery, on the road toward the railway station. The tombs of this ancient "city of the dead" range along a street in urban fashion. Occupants' names are carved in Etruscan characters in the soft tufa stone. Recently-discovered materials from the tombs may be seen at the Claudio Faina Archaeological Museum on the Piazza del Duomo, facing the cathedral front. It goes without saying that the best way to see Orvieto is to spend a night or two. Most people visit the town during a quick stop between Rome and Venice or Florence. Stay for the night, and the town is yours after the day-trippers leave. Stay here after your visit to Rome, and you will enjoy it even more. [Editor's note: If you've a car at your disposal you can squeeze Orvieto and Perugia into the same day, though you'll do neither justice. (Perugia and Assisi can also be done in one day). Orvieto is about an hour by train from Rome on the main Florence-Rome line (though not all trains stop.) Take the funicular across the street from the Orvieto station to the top of the hill; save your funicular ticket for the bus on which it is valid. If you're interested in overnighting
in Orvieto consider La Badia (Monastery). It's on the hilltop across the valley from
Orvieto, within, almost literally, a stone's throw of the city. A four-star hotel today It
was built in the 8th Century as a Benedictine monastery. (More on the
monastery.) A great view of the city and excellent food (often featuring wild game
roasted in the fireplace in the dining room.) We've not stayed but did view the rooms
after lunch; spartan, but comfortable. Receives excellent comments from others including
those who have stayed multiple times. Doubles (1999 prices) from ITL 254,000, singles from
ITL 180,000. Copyright © 1996 Harlan H. Hague Questions about planning a similar trip? Comments for
the author? Harlan Hague is a writer and retired history professor. He has published history and prize-winning biography, travel articles, and is lately peddling screenplays. Harlan is a Caribbean barefoot windjammer zealot who still gets choked up when raising sail while "Amazing Grace" plays in the background. He has lived in Japan and England's Cotswold Hills which he considers a second home. He has traveled around the world and visited sixty or seventy countries, dependencies, colonies, protectorates, and motus. Would you like to add an article about your travel experiences in Europe? It's easy to do. Our Favorites Trip Tips and Tools Last Revision April 20, 2000 Traveling
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