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Roma, non basta una vita!

Visiting in August
Myth and Reality

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The myth never dies!

Remember Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox? Telling tall tales is an enjoyable and honored tradition of long standing. But let's not get carried away.

How often have you been told, "Don't go to Rome in August; everything shuts down?" "Don't go to Rome in August, there are no Italians there." Don't go to Rome in August, the heat will be unbearable."

Rome in August is not hell warmed over! Nor are "all" Italians on vacation. Nor are "all" stores and restaurants closed.

It will be a bit hotter ... than January! But then It's been in the 90s, occasionally at 100, here in the US midwest this July (normal), and quite humid. August in Rome doesn't frighten us. And in fact Rome is not, normally, one of the hotter spots on the planet.

Would you believe Rome's August weather runs about the same as Chicago's? The average high in Rome is 83 vs. 82.5 for Chicago. (That's about 28 Celsius.)  The average daily temperature runs 75 vs. 73, and a 67 degree average low compares to Chicago's 64.2.

Does it get hotter on occasion? Sure, just as it does anywhere, including your hometown if you live in the northern hemisphere.

Admittedly, many travelers don't spend entire August days outdoors while not traveling. Baseball players, electric company linemen ... many of us do, though.

Either way, though, it makes sense, vacationing in Rome or elsewhere in the summer, to spend time indoors as well as outdoors. The Vatican Museums, the major basilicas and other important churches, all spots that merit much time indoors. On many days, with a sensible sightseeing plan, you'll not know whether it's winter or summer ... more or less.

But so much of Rome's attractions, at least for us, are outdoors: The Roman and Imperial Fora, the Palatine, marvelous city spaces like Piazza Navona. None air conditioned. Yet, all have opportunities for relief from the heat. Even the relatively unshaded Fora have spots where you can, at least for a few minutes, escape from the sun. The Palatine is full of delightful spots in the shade. And in most piazzas you'll find one side or the other in shade, or a table for two with a welcome umbrella.

Indeed the buildings of the city seem to absorb, and radiate, heat. Avoid spending too much time in narrow, though sunlit, streets. Spend as much of your on-the-street time in areas where there's at least a little space between you and the brick or stucco walls, like piazzas.

And you'll find spaces in the city like the Protestant Cemetary which offer both shade and interest. As do the targets of many of our favorite excursions, such as Ostia Antica. Remember, also, the park grounds of the Villa Borghese are one giant stretch of shade.

Do many Italians take much of the month of August for vacation, as do the French? Of course, and so, for that matter, do many Americans, Canadians, Australians ... Were it not so, you wouldn't be asking the question, would you?  smile.gif (93 bytes)

But all Italians? Hardly! Who would collect the trash if "all" did?! And in fact, the Italians that run businesses that depend on tourists are pretty smart. Knowing that there are lots of tourists in August, most don't close their restaurants or shops in August.

So the average tourist in most of the places where tourists tend to go, whether in Rome, or north or south, will find things in August pretty much as they are in most any other month. Get off the beaten track a bit, whether in the countryside or in the larger cities and you may find a few places closed. But most of you wouldn't be visiting them anyway.

Have you heard comments about, "Few Italians on the street in August ... many foreigners?" Of course you have. And of course there are many foreigners. It's tourist season of course. But few Italians on the street? Well, in January there aren't many Italians on the street either, except in the evening or at lunch time ... they're inside working! And so it is in August for the most part.

If you're planning on visiting factories and offices you will see that much of Italy does go on holiday in August, and you'll find disappointment. If you're planning on going to Italian beaches, mountains and lakes, you'll find them crowded in August.

A few restaurants will be closed for holiday (true in almost every month, though ... obviously different restaurants.) A few shops will be closed, though virtually none of the shops that are most often visited by tourists.

The major cities might be a bit less crowded as there will be a few less locals about, though you're unlikely to notice the difference, and some of that will be offset by provincial Italians visiting Rome. Rome, Italy, with real Italians visiting!

We've been in Rome in August as well as most other months and find little difference overall. As is true for June through most of September, though, you do want to make sure your hotel has air conditioning.

We'd prefer to visit Italy, certainly Rome, in late May or early October, or June or September ... but we've enjoyed our visits there in every virtually every month of the year.

If August is a good time for you to go, and you'd otherwise not be able to go to this wonderful country ... go!

When you're planning your trips, it's a good idea to separate myth from fact.

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Published July 19, 2001
Last revision July 25, 2001

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