New in Oh-Two
Look for something old, something new
when you visit Ouray in 2002

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The San Juan Mountains

Visitor's Perspective | Where? | Area History
When To Go? | Activities | Jeeping
Shopping | Resources

Continued from Page One

Activities

mine_building_at_top_of_Red_Mountain_Pass.jpg (237676 bytes)

Mine complex building, just off the
highway at Red Mountain Pass

Jeeping is our favorite pastime in Ouray and the San Juans. The driving is usually fun, but we get even greater pleasure from viewing the spectacular scenery and exploring the remains of ghost towns, mines, mining camps, mills and railroads.

The 'Jeep' is the open sesame to the area's history.

But you don't have to own (or rent) a 4-WD to enjoy the mountains.

There are several enjoyable routes the family sedan will handle nicely. A few suggestions:

  • Million Dollar Highway - the portion between Ouray and Silverton of the San Juan Skyway is the most scenic ... one of the most scenic routes in America. The entire loop (Ouray, Silverton, Durango, Telluride) is 236 miles long and can be driven in a day, though that would be a shame. The trip to Silverton takes only 30-35 minutes ... not counting time to stop and stare at the splendor. We've some helpful comments about driving the Skyway.
  • Telluride - An hour trip passes through some lovely territory. In good weather you can make part of it, at the cost of time, off-road on the Last Dollar Road, even without a 4-wheel drive.  (See Jeep Routes.)
  • Owl Creek Pass - You'll find the turnoff for this route just three miles north of Ridgway at Dallas on the east side of the road  (County Road 10). It'll take about 30 minutes to get to the top and you'll have a special view of Courthouse Mountain for much of the trip. There are many aspen stands so the area is quite lovely in the fall. You can either turn around, or continue to the end on US50 east of Montrose.
  • Many of the ghost towns and other old sites may be visited in the family sedan most times.
Image Map - Use Links in Text

You'll find other ideas on our activities page, and be sure and take a look at Driving the Mountains without the Bumps!

A Book Recommendation
If you're visiting Colorado and, like us, want the best guide book available, it's clearly The Colorado Guide. It covers the entire state well and includes all information a Vacationer could possibly want to know. It's a must.

There are many other pleasurable amusements as well: fly fishing, other fishing, hiking, camping, swimming, ice climbing, hot-spring-lolling, horseback riding, mine tours, museums, river rafting, scenery gazing and photography, mountain biking, scenic drives, narrow-gauge train trips, shopping, cookouts, musical show, rock climbing, mountaineering, skiing, ballooning, excursions, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, hunting ... depending on season, they're all here, and we probably missed others. You'll find information on many starting with the Ouray home page.

Ouray's hot springs are unique in the area. They would have been a major attraction to the Utes and definitely are today to visitors and area residents. Ouray operates a fitness center and large municipal pool fed by the local springs, year 'round. If a hot soak out of doors in summer or winter is your idea of bliss, Ouray's the spot. Several of the hotels have private hot springs feeding hot tubs or hot pools. The city complex boasts a 250 by 150 foot pool including several soaking sections at a variety of temperatures, a lap-swimming section and a diving area. The facilities include a fitness center and bathhouse.

Ouray is a pleasant, small city looking much as it did at the turn of the century. While there are a few discordant modernized building fronts the city has not been 'beautified' and has a dignified if rough-hewn charm. It's worth two hours before or after lunch to take a self-guided tour about town. A brochure details the walk and sights, and you'll also find the route and commentary reproduced in the helpful tabloid-sized "Ouray County Summer Guide" or Chamber "Visitor Guide."

Hiking and Excursions

There are many worthwhile hikes in and near Ouray, and many possible day- and half-day-long excursions.

Jeeping

You'll find many reasons to visit, indeed, fall in love with, the area. For us, and perhaps for you, the mountains are the treasure and our four-wheel drive the "open sesame." You can drive your own 4X4, rent a Jeep ... or join a tour and relax with a pro at the wheel. Follow this link and learn what you need to know about both options.

Ouray Shopping

Ouray has a small number of interesting shops and boutiques ... some the usual tourist-oriented fare, some quite excellent. Here are our favorites ... the top of the line for us.

When To Go

With the experience of only eight visits in under four years we're certainly no experts.  We first went in mid-latish-September which seemed a perfect time. The snow was mainly gone. Mountain snow rarely entirely leaves, and snow in any month, even July and August, is always a possibility. If you're new to visiting mountain areas our notes on Mountain Weather may be helpful.

Click for Ouray, Colorado Forecast

Current Weather
Conditions

The weather was still warm, and the aspens were just beginning to change. The aspens should have been about perfect the following week, and Indian Summer often runs into early October. We've since also visited in mid-July and found the time equally enjoyable, if a bit warmish in '98.

We currently visit in late June and late September. The timing of the aspens' color change varies from year to year, but we've had pretty good luck at hitting the peak in the last week of September. The change of color usually begins earlier, and the gold and yellow often lasts into October.

Weather in late June seems more variable. We've been warm, and seen little more snow than in July. On the contrary in 2001, following a fairly wet and snowy winter, the rivers are running quite high, Black Bear Pass and Poughkeepsie are still closed, and Imogene just opened, albeit with a bit of ice crust in places. We've just returned (June 25, '01) from a run over California and Hurricane Passes and the snow at trail side ran up to 12 feet in height ... several spots quite wet and with poor adhesion. Sounds like a troublesome run? Actually one of our more enjoyable outings. Rain, sun, lots of snow on north slopes ... a great time to be up here!

The nearest full weather reporting station available is Telluride, only 8 miles away as the crow flies. That's the station reported above. Telluride is at considerably higher altitude and positioned differently in the mountains. Montrose, 36 miles to the north of Ouray, and several thousand feet lower in elevation. Montrose is usually warmer than the mountain towns, and often drier, with much less snow.

The USGS does provide limited weather reporting at an automatic station in Ouray. Select the "Real-time" data for the site. There are a number of other automatic stations in the county. You're interested in the "MET." (meteorological) stations at the bottom of the list.

columbine.jpg (28187 bytes)

The Columbine,
Colorado's State Flower

Mountain wildflowers peak in July, though you'll still find snow (plowed) at the high passes. (The high four-wheeling routes are usually plowed-through by July 4th, sometimes earlier or later depending on late-season snowfalls.) Summer weather is normally excellent, though you should expect afternoon summer showers and occasional thunderstorms.

Mushroom hunting is usually excellent in August and September, and Telluride celebrates an August mushroom festival.

Winter months, December through March, offer a unique respite compared to the typical glitzy ski resort. Ouray experiences more sunny days than Southern California. In winter you'll find many bright sunshiny days in Ouray, great for outdoor activities. 

While there's only a kiddie 'school slope' at Ouray, Telluride is just an hour away and Telluride lift tickets are half price if you stay in Ouray. And if you're an ice climber (or would like to learn) Ouray and the Telluride area have some excellent spots and guides.

The annual "Imogene Pass Run" (mountain footrace) is usually the first Saturday following Labor Day (the 8th in 2001), and the Jeep Jamboree is the third or fourth weekend of September (20-22,  2001.)   Book far in advance if these are your preferred times to visit.

A Quick History

The important geology of the region began sixty million years ago during a long, thirty million years more or less, period of sporadic, but intense, volcanic activity. Inhabitants and visitors have benefited in two ways from this upheaval: dramatic, beautifully rugged mountains were formed; fabulous veins of silver, copper, gold and other valuable metals were deposited in the mountains for the prospectors brave enough to venture into this rugged country.

Today's civilization and recreational opportunity directly result from the geological history and the mining that eventually occurred. (Take a detour to find more of this background.)

The Ute Indians were the first humans to visit, six or seven centuries ago. The white man found minerals in the middle of the 19th-century. Consistent with this period of American history, the Indians were forced from the area and it became a center of intense prospecting, mining, and economic development. (Take a moment to learn more of the human history of the area.)

With the decline in silver prices at the turn of the century the area gradually declined. The need for certain minerals during WW II revived mining for a short period. A better and longer-lasting boost has come from a more subtle aspect of the World War ... the Jeep.

This was the Wild West, and there was much hell-raising in the area's heyday. Ouray, however, benefited from the presence of many families and so was much more 'civilized'. It was, however, not without its complement of murders, brawls, bars and bawdy houses. 'Civilized' was a relative term in the 19th-century mining towns.

A majority of the turn-of-the-century buildings are still intact and in use. If you wish you can stay in one of the original hotels, lovingly refurbished. Few of the shops will remind you of anything you have at home, most with unaccustomed character. And you'll find the merchants and residents on the streets helpful and downright friendly.

If you are a history buff you'll want to know that the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 2000 named the Red Mountain Mining District one of the 11 most-endangered historic places.

Planning Resources

We've assembled aids to help you enjoy your visit on our Ouray Information page. You'll find hotel information, recommended restaurants, suggested books and useful websites.

Farther From Home

If you love the mountains as we do you'll find a visit to the Swiss Berner Oberland to be at least as enjoyable as visiting the San Juans.

Marmot

Alpine marmot (Marmota marmota) is a large bushy-tailed rodent, basically a ground hog or woodchuck, and related to squirrels and prairie dogs. They live in the Alpine tundra in the Alps, Rockies, Tatras and Pyrenees. When alarmed they whistle to alert their friends and family. (Back to main article thread.)

Acknowledgements

Thanks to our San Juanian friends for their review and suggestions: Suzi Cramer, Roberta Peterson and especially Barbara Uhles. Their help exemplifies the neighborly spirit of this area.

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