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The San Juan Mountains

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People | Land

The Land

The San Juans cover 12,000 square miles (31,000 sq. kms.) of southwestern Colorado, an eighth of the state. The mountains, relatively new geologically speaking, are among the most rugged and highest of North America, and equally superlative in their mineral content. Hundreds of peaks rise above 13,000 feet (3,962 meters) and many tower above 14,000 feet (4,265 meters.) The area of richest mineralization is small, perhaps 250 square miles (650 sq. kms.) This "mother lode" is bounded by Ouray on the north, Silverton south, Lake City to the east and Ophir (near Telluride) west.

During the lushly tropical dinosaur period the peace was disturbed by heavy volcanic activity. Superheated, mineralized water and steam from the core of the earth were forced upward into the cracks formed by the volcanism.

As the earth cooled many ore veins were formed. The San Juan area was then much higher, perhaps twice, than it is today, though it was an elevated plain rather than mountainous.

Halfway between the early volcanic period of 65,000,000 years ago and today another extended period of volcanism occurred, followed by another period of spewing volcanoes a short time later (only 5,000,000 years.) Ash and lava from this period filled in the valleys and fissures, leveling the area.

After all these eruptions the pools of magma under the earth's surface in this area shrank, creating spaces into which portions of the earth sank forming bowls, or calderas. (The side of one such creating the "Amphitheater" in Ouray.)

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Near the end of this upheaval of the earth more mineralized water and steam were forced upward. The resulting veins are unlike most other mineral deposits.

The mountains, as we now see them, were formed largely by lava and ash from the volcanoes with the subsequent valleys and canyons formed by erosion from glaciers, water and wind.

Instead of horizontal seams, the veins are vertical, more or less cylindrical and are called chimneys. Adding to the spice of a prospectors life the top of the chimneys tend to be low-grade ores (zinc and lead or silver/lead.) Below this one typically finds copper and silver, and at the bottom low-grade copper with often a little gold. Further, the topmost layer of ore is often covered with a hard silica 'cap'.

These veins differed greatly in size, running from a few hundred to a few thousand feet deep and from perhaps one hundred feet wide to over a thousand feet. Some of the chimneys contain much smaller 'pipes' which carry especially rich ores.

Between the variations in width and depth of the chimneys and pipes and given the variety of value between the pipes, the chimneys and the various layers, mining the San Juans took a financially risky business to a new level of chance.

Also high in reward, of course. The famous Camp Bird mine produced $5,000 in gold and silver every day at the end of the 19th-century ... one of the richest mines ever found.

The most interesting part of the area is called the Red Mountain District, lying half-way between Silverton and Ouray. Interesting in terms of the richness of the minerals, and equally interesting today for the unusual beauty of the mountains. The three brilliant red peaks (imaginatively) called Red Mountain 1, 2 and 3 are filled with iron and covered with soil rich in iron oxide. Don't think of red sandstone; think more of cayenne pepper, though a bit softer. As a result of the iron and sulfur compounds many of the nearby streams run a rich red or yellow in color.

The People

Ouray lies at the heart of the "Four Corners" area. The region had been controlled by the Tabeguache Ute Indians for several hundred years. They didn't live (full-time) in the area, wisely preferring the warmer lower elevations for most of the year. They were nomadic and traveled up to the higher elevations during the summer.

They ventured often to the beautiful setting of Ouray. Nestled in a bowl of volcanic origins, attended by the three large waterfalls, accompanied by several creeks and hot springs, and with plentiful game the site would have been a welcome summer camp.

The Anasazi (Ancient Ones) occupied the the Mesa Verde area to the south (near Durango) as early as 2,000 years ago, and cave dwellers occupied the lower area to the north (around Delta) as far back as 3,000 years ago. However there is no evidence they ventured into the high San Juans. The Utes were probably the first to enter the area.

Around 1300 the Utes found themselves driven from the lowlands and forced to exist in the mountainous area of the Four Corners by pressure from the more-populous Plains Indians.

The Spanish laid claim to the area in the mid 16th-century but no (known) explorers arrived until two centuries later. Juan Maria de Riviera passed through in 1765. By the time the Dominguez-Escalante expedition came through in 1776 many of the rivers and mountains had been given Spanish names. Trappers and geographers wrote about the general area in the early 1800s.

Little occurred here during the first half of the 18th-century. Gold, however, was discovered east of Silverton in 1860, and over the next decade prospectors and miners came in growing numbers.

As one might expect there was tension between Indians and prospectors/settlers. Unlike many areas in the West peace was generally maintained, thanks to the efforts of Ouray, the principal chief of the Ute Indians. The Utes signed a treaty in 1874 ceding most of the San Juans to the whites, who were interested in mining, while retaining most of the territory to the north and west. Despite this senate-ratified treaty, the Utes were ousted from the area by the government in 1881and resettled in Utah. Ironically the city was named after Chief Ouray because of his peace-making efforts.

Within five years of its discovery by the white man, and as word of the rich mineral strikes became widely known, Ouray was flooded with eager prospectors becoming the center of intense mining and economic development. By 1885 Ouray had become a thriving business community managed by well-educated professional men and was inhabited, unlike most mining towns, with a very family-oriented population.

For the remainder of the century mining dominated the area's history. This saga of discoveries of wealth and the drudgery of hard-rock mining is joined by the running battle between Ouray and Silverton to gain dominance as the source of supplies for the mines and miners and the transit point for the ore. Equally interesting are the the tales of road- and railroad-builders forging commercial routes through what were thought to be impenetrable mountains.

From the early 20th-century onward the decline in the price of silver (the dominant prize in the area mines) eviscerated mining and the economics and population of the area steadily declined.

The need for gold, silver and specialty metals revived the industry briefly during World War II, but the end of the war brought an end to most of the significant mining. There is now little economic mining in the area, though geologists believe large quantities of gold, silver and other precious minerals remain in the mountains. Ouray's economy is tied to summer visitors and a rapidly-growing number of winter sports enthusiasts. Nearby Telluride is a premier ski resort as well.

The books by P. David Smith provide extensive historical background for an area whose past is as interesting and varied as the wonderful scenery.

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Created November 10, 1997
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