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The San Juan Mountains

Excusions

Hiking | Excursions | Driving

Excursions

Camp Bird Mine | Mine Tour | Telluride | Fort Uncompahgre
Narrow-gauge Train | Silverton |
Mill Tour
Black Canyon of the Gunnison | Durango | Mesa Verde

Effective May 25, 2001 a use fee is required for access to the Canyon Creek area, including the Camp Bird Mine, Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene Pass road and Weehawken areas. It's $5 for a day (actually two) or $15 for the year. Sold at the Ouray visitor center, a variety of local businesses, Forest Service offices (nearest in Montrose), self-service pay stations at area entry points and www.publiclands.org.

Camp Bird Mine
You can (usually) use your car to get to the remains of Camp Bird Mine, that fabulous source of wealth for Tom Walsh and family. It's a scenic drive on a county road and you'll pass many remains of old mines and mills.

(This gravel road, which begins just at the south edge of town doesn't require a high-clearance vehicle. At times, though, it can become quite rutted. We'd prefer to do the trip in a rented Jeep or our own SUV.)

Bachelor-Syracuse Mine Tour
Take advantage of the nearby opportunity to tour one of the more successful mines in the area. After donning a slicker and hard-hat, which they provide, you'll quickly travel 3,350 feet into the heart of the mountain on a mine tram. You'll find yourself 1,000 feet below the surface fascinated by all you'll learn about mining and miners ... most likely from someone who's made their living at this or a similar mine.

(Not recommended for claustrophobes; Julie is mildly uncomfortable in confined places and made the trip into the mine with only a bit of anxiety and some determination. You may find it comforting to bring a flashlight to use during the tram ride as the only light is from dim bulbs spaced far apart and the tour conductor's lamp on his hard-hat. Once inside the mine the lighting is good and Julie was at ease for the rest of the visit and trip out. Mine temperatures are typically in the 50s, so you may want to take along a sweater.)

The mine, two miles north of Ouray, is open from late May to the middle of September.

A slightly more extended write-up on the tour.

Telluride
A trip into the Wild West, and at the same time a journey into the land of 'beautiful people' (rich, beautiful people) ... as well as old hippies, new hippies, and other of society's iconoclasts. The city began as a mining town and rapidly gained a reputation as one of the wild spots of the Wild West era. Butch Cassidy staged his first bank robbery here.

More tame now, but, for the most part, Telluride looks much as it did at the turn of the century. (Perhaps like us you may find the Victorianism a bit excessive or overly contrived.) Nonetheless, the shops and turn-of-the-century buildings are worth the trip, and there are many fine restaurants.

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We enjoyed Eagles Bar and Grill (watch out for the garlic), the Floradora for lunch and Rustico's food and outdoor patio -- both on Colorado Ave. in the area of and across from the courthouse.

If you have time take a ride on the free gondola to the Mountain Village. You will see how the wealthy enjoy their mountain time.

Telluride is less than 10 miles from Ouray ... for birds; by highway it's nearly 50 miles and 65 minutes, over the scenic Dallas Divide at 8,970 feet (2,734 meters). Any of the 4x4 'shortcuts' take up to three hours.

Fort Uncompahgre

This is a recreation of the fur trading post established near Delta in 1826. At this 'living history' museum you will guided, and entertained, by interpreters clothed in perioduncompahgre.jpg (4871 bytes) attire. Much of their time has been and is committed to living the life of the traders who first used this fort. You'll find them experienced in such things as trapping beaver, making buckskin the Native American way and blacksmithing. By the end of your visit you'll feel you've stepped back in time.

Ed and Julie, hardly kids (chronologically)  thoroughly enjoyed their visit and plan to return. For youngsters, especially, this is an outstanding visit, delightfully enjoyable and educational as well.

The fort is located just off US50 near the center of Delta in Confluence Park on Gunnison River Drive. (55 miles north of Ouray; just over an hour's drive.) Open from March through September, Tuesday through Saturday from 10am until 4pm. Run by the city, this is one of the most reasonably-priced visits you'll make on your vacation. Adults, $3.50, children $2.50.

Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
Virtually the last surviving operational narrow gauge in the US makes the 45 mile trip between Durango and Silverton several times a day in the summer season. The round trip takes eight or nine hours, including time out for lunch and shopping in Silverton.

Durango is 70 miles and 90 minutes from Ouray by road. If you'd prefer a shorter outing you can take a bus from Silverton to Durango and the train back to your car at Silverton. The Silverton depot (1-970-387-5416) will make reservations and has the Silverton-Durango bus schedule. (Or, 1888 872-4607.)

The link above will provide you with the history of this route, train schedules and fares. Advance reservations (4-8 weeks) are suggested. If you're in Ouray and haven't made a reservation, though, it's worth a call to see if seats are available.

Silverton
Ouray and its equal-sized neighbor to the south were locked in mortal economic battle for most of the last quarter of the 18th-century. In the end, with the decline of mining, it was all for naught. The first city in the US with cement sidewalks, Silverton looks much as it must have in its prime, if somewhat time-worn.

Its setting, while decidedly scenic, is not as distinguished as Ouray's. There are many shops for those so inclined, and it's the northern terminus of the Durango-Silverton narrow-gauge railroad. The city seems 'lifeless' most of the time; it pulses to the arrival of the Durango train.

Be sure and plan a visit to the Mayflower Mill when in the Silverton area. You'll find it two miles NE of Silverton on highway 110 on the way to Animas Forks. The mill was built in the '30s and operated until 1991. It looks today as it did when it closed. The machinery is in working order and you may turn some on as you follow the numbered tour, with interpretive signs. Guided tours are also available.

The mill is open daily from Memorial Day into (early) September. Cost of the tour is $8.50, kids $4.50. Youngsters and oldsters alike will enjoy the visit.

If you're in Silverton at lunch time try Romero's. An area friend opines, "great Mexican food and atmosphere; several generations of Romeros work there and they're all very nice." Jeep drivers should avoid the "killer" Margaritas. The Gold King also serves a decent lunch and you may enjoy the period interior.

You can get some of the experiences of off-roading in a family car with a drive to Animas Forks from Silverton. The road is unpaved outside of Silverton, but usually in excellent condition, at least to Howardsville. Beyond this point 4WD is 'recommended', but over the course of several visits we've never seen a need for a true off-road vehicle.

At the very least you'll enjoy the scenery along the drive to Howardsville, viewing fine mountains and remains of mines from one of the best mining territories in the country. You'll pass the Mayflower Mill, and you've not visitied the Bachelor-Syracuse mine in Ouray you could stop and visit the Old Hundred gold mine.

Beyond Howardsville the road gets a bit (only a bit) rougher, though quite a bit narrower. Uphill vehicles 'have' the right of way, though common sense should always prevail. There are usually plenty of wide spots to permit vehicles to pass.

Silverton is 23 miles south of Ouray over the Million Dollar Highway, a trip of 30-35 minutes. You'll cross over Red Mountain Pass at 11,075 feet (3,375 meters). Since the scenery along the highway is spectacular and there are many opportunities to stop and look along the way, plan on an hour or so. The highway is well-built and quite safe, but timid drivers may find the trip takes longer.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Among the finest canyons in the country, and undervisited. Budget a half day for this trip. Drive the rim, stopping at the various lookout points for outstanding scenery and a view of what time and Mother Nature can accomplish. The more energetic may wish to spend more time and hike to the bottom of the canyon. Take a picnic lunch, or have an early lunch in Montrose and spend the afternoon at the Canyon.

It's about an hour's drive, north to Montrose, then a short jog east on US 50.

Durango

This town is 69 miles south of Ouray, about two hours. Parts of the trip (briefly described in Activities) is quite lovely for the first three-quarters of the way. We find Durango largely undistinguished other than as a terminus for the narrow-gauge rail.

Although it must be said the central area of the main street is one of the more attractive remaining reminders of what 'small town' America looked like 50 years ago. Some especially nice shops scattered about, several sporting goods stores among them, including one so large it occupies two large stores on opposite sides of the street. Several good restaurants according to reputation. We had a very enjoyable meal at Oriano's, one block off the main street.

Mesa Verde National Park

Beyond Durango to the west is one of America's most popular national parks. And rightly so. The "cliff dwellings" protected here were home to the 'ancient ones' who inhabited villages in the area from about the 7th century AD until the end of the 13th. The archaeological sites within the park represent, for the most part, perhaps the last century of the culture. As far as we know the peoples then 'disappeared', though two dozen Native American tribes in the Southwest are descended, to at least some degree, from this culture.

This is the first, and only, national park established to preserve works of man. Dating from 1906, the park has been expanded throughout the years, and now encompasses more than 50,000 acres. The park was designated a World Heritage Site nearly 25 years ago.

Much of the park is open to visitors without guides or reservations. The three most important sites may only be visited on guided tours which you can (only) reserve in person at the visitor center. Some portions of the park are open year 'round (weather permitting), though some of the important sites are open only from Memorial Day to Labor Day, or for the Cliff Palace and Balcony House from mid-May through mid-October.

We spent a busy half day at the park after driving from a bit north of Durango (Purgatory) and returning the same day. A half day provides a good overview of the park, but it merits a full day if your schedule permits. We do have a full-day return visit on our to-do list. There is lodging on-site. The park entrance is located halfway between Mancos and Cortez on US160. It's about 30 miles from Durango, perhaps 40-60 minutes depending on traffic. Note that it about 15 miles (20-30 minutes) from the park entrance to the visitor center.

BulletThe Bircher Fire was declared contained as we write this page at the end of July, 2000. Some of the fire intruded into the park and you should check with the park's website for up-to-date information about how the fire may affect visitors.

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Created November 10, 1997
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