Logo & Links: See Page Bottom - Ouray, Telluride, Silverton, Mountains, Excursions, Vacation, Switzerland of America, Holiday, Travel, Books,
Travel References, Trip Planning Help, Articles, Read, Jeep, jeep trails, Jeeping, OHV, off road, off highway, trails, 4WD, 4X4, four-by-four, Off-road, OHV, Ouray, Colorado, San Juan, Telluride, Lake City, Jeep Capitol of
America, Durango, Silverton, Railroad, Mining, Gold, Silver, Camp Bird,
Yankee Boy, Imogene, Ophir, Black Bear, Engineer Pass, Hurricane Pass,
Cinnamon Pass, Lake City

Image Map - Use Links in Text

The San Juan Mountains

Words_Jeeping.gif (760 bytes)

Four-wheeling:
Tips | Routes: Black Bear Road
Last Dollar Road | Ophir Pass | Imogene Pass
Camp Bird and Yankee Boy Basin | Cinnamon Pass | Brown Mountain
Picayune/Placer (Treasure Mountain)
California Mountain/Hurricane Pass
Corkscrew/Red Mountain
GPS Waypoints

To best enjoy this majestic wilderness you've got to get into it. With no cable cars, funiculars or cog rails, you can get into the mountains only by walking or four-wheeling. However you get there, you'll find the views more than worthwhile when not downright spectacular. If you're an experienced off-roader in remote mountain areas you may want to jump ahead to the routes. If you have some four-wheeling experience in less-demanding terrain you may benefit from a look at our tips before deciding which routes you'll try.

If, as we were when we first visited Ouray in '97, you're a bit unsure about Jeeping, and driving yourself or taking tours, read on. We'll try to give you the background you need to make the right choice. What isn't in question, and what you should know up front, if you're in Ouray, you'll want to get up into the mountains ... or you came to the wrong place.

Ouray is known as the Switzerland of America, and also, with good reason, the Jeep Capitol of America. Ourayredmountainfilm.jpg (17576 bytes) County boasts over 500 miles of back roads into the high country, and there are hundreds more in the adjoining counties. Level of difficulty ranges from 'simple in your family sedan' to difficult. The vast majority are easily done.

Remember, you're above 8,000 feet altitude. The weather can change suddenly, reduced oxygen will affect you, and you'll sunburn more easily. Whether on a rental or a tour, you'll find a brief discussion of what to expect in Mountain Weather.

Our habits, and our recommendations, don't involve heroic feats of derring-do on the slopes. Indeed, you can enjoy many of the better parts of the area with your family car, or with a 4WD which you'll never shift into low range.

In the driving portion of Ouray Activities we've noted some 'car trips' you can enjoy, along with a few tips on driving the mountain roads in the area. In Excursions you'll find several enjoyable trips to make in either a sedan or 4WD.

Image Map - Use Links in Text Most of our favorite 'ghost towns' (relics of villages, mines, mills, railroads and the like) are reachable in ordinary family vehicles. You'll probably find a visit to several of these among your favorite things to do in the San Juans. Sometimes a little easier in a 4WD, but most, as we say, can be done in your car.

That said, we do enjoy driving the trails about as much as visiting the relics of the past. You'll find the following introduction to 'Jeeping' helpful in getting you started. And if you are new to the activity, do check out our 4WD Tips.

There are many reasons to visit the area. For us the mountains are the treasure and a four-wheel drive vehicle the "open sesame." If you've not driven off-road before, you owe yourself the experience. And this is the place to try it out!

We found our first day out in the mountains amusing, and instructive as to the need for good directions or maps.

So near the top and yet so far. "How about that last track back 50 yards?" "Unlikely," I said, but we retraced our path and gave it a go.

Another dead end. What now, clinging to the mountainside at 10,000 feet?

"There's a trace of a route over to the left," Julie said. Inching our way along, in just a few minutes anmarmot.jpg (3623 bytes) impassable snow bank blocked the way.

Again backtracking, we returned to where we had last seen the marmot. "Where's Hurricane Pass?" The marmot knew. But the only answer was a beady-eyed stare and yet another warning whistle.

This sentry was following his orders. We'd get no advice from him today.

We've done Hurricane many times now and wonder how we missed the trail. Although, it is a bit obscure and a more careful reading of the map would have saved the day. Don't go into the mountains without a map.

We're used to walking in the Swiss Alps; we love getting away from the crowds and finding spectacular viewpoints. We approached the idea of Jeeping with some skepticism. Short story made shorter: two days of planned four-wheeling turned into four, and would have been more if had we not run out of time.

Even if you sniff at riding as opposed to walking in the mountains, give Jeeping a try. If you're late-middle-aged as we are, San Juan walks turn into honest-to-goodness hard, vertical hiking. With no fixed mountain transport available, it's walking all the way from trailhead to trail's end ... or ride. At that, many of the more interesting hikes require a high-clearance vehicle to get to a good starting point.

If you have ecological concerns about Jeeping in the wilderness, remember that most of these trails were cut a century ago for mining access. Most of the off-roaders are as concerned about not marring the fragile Alpine tundra as any environmentalist and scrupulously stay on the existing trails.

And disregard any notions you might have about Jeeping being an exercise only for 'mountain men' full of testosterone, with their Jeeps laden with winches, Hi-Jacks and tow ropes. That applies to some, but even here, most, if not all, do it responsibly. For us the attraction is not the danger and skillful maneuvering out of tight spots, but the mountain scenery, the marmots and other wildlife, and the chance to explore rapidly disappearing mines, mills and ghost towns.

If you have your own 4x4 make sure it has high clearance with trueqx4.jpg (34061 bytes) four-wheel drive that includes a "4-Low" gear range, unless you'll restrict yourselves to the spots we indicate can be driven in your car.

A low-slung family car, SUV (or even most 'trucks') with "all-wheel-drive" won't do the job on steep sections. If you've not driven in the mountains off-road before, please read our tips before starting out. Even if you have some off-road experience, take a look at these reminders anyway; there are few parts of the country with similar trails, ecology and history. It deserves to be treated with care.

Rental firms also run half-day and full-day tours. Typical rates run from $40 for some half-day tours up to $95  or so for the Black Bear trip. If you're uncomfortable driving mountains, narrow roads and a manual shift, you'll find a tour more enjoyable.

A Jeep Wrangler is the typical rental (4 seats) and a 5-passenger Cherokee may be available. Common rates are $110/day for the Wrangler and $130 for the Cherokee. Half-day and one week rentals are available.

The Wrangler is basic but very capable and agile. A short wheelbase, high clearance and high approach and departure angles make trail driving much easier. Short of a Humvee or a custom job, it's probably the best there is for these trails. We recommend asking for a rental with the sides down, but that's a personal decision.

Switzerland of America Tours and Colorado West were recommended equally to us by knowlegable locals. We chose Switzerland of America. The vehicles were new Wranglers and Cherokees in excellent condition. The staff were friendly, knowledgeable and helpful to Jeeping neophytes. They generously suggested scenic routes and provided detailed mapping. (1-800-432-JEEP (5337), or 1-970-325-4484). New owners in 1999, highly regarded by local residents, and reputed to be extremely 'customer friendly'.

Colorado West (1-970-325-4014 or 1-800-648-JEEP) features Wranglers and comes well-recommended. If you're taking a tour there is a difference between the two operators. Switzerland of America uses open vehicles; Colorado West uses enclosed Suburbans. We would choose the open vehicle ourselves, as we like the feel of being out in the mountains, even if riding. Others may feel a bit more comfortable on narrow mountain roads in an enclosed vehicle, or may worry about the possibility of rain.

By the way, the number of rental vehicles in town is relatively small; advance reservations may be helpful.

For those doing their own driving, we have a few thoughts and tips on off-road, mountain driving which are particularly important to know in this area. Please take a look at them before blazing your way into this beautiful and fragile area.

It May Be Addictive!
It was the third day of our first experiences Jeeping. We turned the rental in at 4 o'clock following Ophir/Imogene. Julie was a bit frazzled from three days on rough and precipitous roads, and the Imogene descent. As chance would have it, we dined at a restaurant next to Switzerland of America. By the time dinner (and a Margarita) were under our belts, Julie was ready for more! At her suggestion we went next door and signed up for another day of four-wheeling. As you might guess, we traded our sedan for an SUV shortly after we got home!

Jeeping Routes

With hundreds of miles of trails, there are many options. We've listed a few of the more popular and scenic routes.

Four-Wheeling Resources

  • GPS San Juan Waypoints
  • 4WD Adventures: Colorado - Unquestionably the most comprehensive guide to four-wheel adventures in Colorado. Sections cover getting you and your car ready for 4WD adventures, extensive background on towns, ghost towns, people and events that have shaped the state; animals, plants. 16 detailed routes in or near the San Juans. All routes include detailed maps, driving directions and GPS waypoints. Other books contain a bit more of this or of that, but this book is the single most comprehensive coverage of all topics. A trifle pricey, if you only want to buy a single book, this is it.
  • Guide to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails - Excellent trail guides to over 60 Colorado routes, including 18 in the San Juans; detailed route maps. The best specific coverage of the San Juan routes.
  • Southern Colorado 4-Wheeling - The San Juans - Descriptions and maps of 25 routes in the area, the most extensive route coverage.
  • Colorado Byways - Backcountry drives for the whole family - 80 of Colorado's best adventure roads. Maps and descriptions sometimes limited, but the coverage of Colorado routes is the most extensive.
    In addition to the four books above, Smith's books contain extended background on many of the areas you'll visit while traveling off-road.
  • Latitude 40° - Telluride Silverton Ouray - Recreation Topo Map covering these towns and the surrounding areas including Lizard Head and Mt. Sneffels Wildernesses. By far the most useful map of the area. Available in many area stores.
  • Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Lake City Colorado from Trails Illustrated, 1992/95 (ISBN 0925873926 - Adventurous Traveler item # 2538.) Hiking map at 1:66,667 scale with 80 foot contour intervals; waterproof and tearproof; based on USGS info and other US agencies. Also useful for four-wheeling, and in fact indispensable unless you carry several USGS 7.5-minute quadrangles. Other maps in the series cover adjacent areas and other areas of interest to four-wheelers. Available from Adventurous Traveler Bookstore.
  • Colorado Atlas and Gazetteer - Complete road maps of the state at a scale of 1:160,000. Not as useful for four-wheeling as a more-detailed map (as above) but the only resource available for some areas.
  • Maptech Terrain Navigator: Colorado/Telluride  - 300 USGS topographic maps on CD-ROM in both 1:24,000 and 1:100,000 scale. This volume covers the entire San Juans Available from Adventurous Traveler Bookstore.
  • 4-Wheel Freedom: The Art of Off-Road Driving - Useful for beginners and experienced hands alike.
  • Jeep Owner's Bible - Getting the most from your Jeep.
  • 4X4 NOW - A useful site with a collection of information relating to four-wheeling, including a selection of books, maps and videos.

San Juan Visitor Information

A Visitor's Perspective

Top of Page

Our Favorites
Rome | Switzerland | Bavaria | Ouray, CO


Trip Tips and Tools
Trip Planning | Best Websites | Travel Books | Been There... | Group Tours
Travelogues | Metric System | Money | What to Wear | Guest Book

Why Rome? | Why Switz.? | Why Plan? | Trip Packing | About TWEnJ
Topical Index | Search TWEnJ | E-mail Julie | Home Page


Copyright © 1996-2001 E.J. Gehrlein
Last Revision: October 2, 2001

Traveling withednjulie.gif (371 bytes)
The Not-For-Profit Site For Your Travel Plans

Use of this site constitutes your acceptance of these
Conditions Of Use