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Bavaria

Wine, Plaster and Timber

Iphofen Roedelseer Gate

Rödelseer Gate

Franconia (Franken, in German) is the region of Germany occupying the northern part of the present-day state of Bavaria, roughly the area above the Danube (Donau).

While Franconia became a duchy in the 9th century and included Mainz, Würzburg, Frankfurt and Worms it remained a patchwork of secular and ecclesiastically ruled states until at least the 18th century when it became aligned with Bavaria. Because of the diffusion of power, it has seen more than its share of sorrow and strife until modern times.

Firmly a part of Bavaria since early in the 19th century, Franconia remains a quite distinct and attractive region, noted for wine, forests and a wealth of historic and well-preserved art and architecture.

Grape clusterGermans, and especially Franconians, love their wines ... and with good reason. Many German cities celebrate wine with a wine festival (Winzerfest). Iphofen is no exception. Iphofen's is usually held the second weekend of July.

Wine alone justifies a visit to Iphofen. It is a major wine center, with over 20 vintners. Franconian whites are among the best from Germany (quite good, indeed), and the Iphofens are at the top, equal to the elite of the world. You'll find many tasting rooms where you may test for yourself the correctness of our judgment.

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Half-timbered houseThe unique stony shell lime underlying the soil provides an ideal basis for producing crisp whites. The city's history is firmly linked to wine production, and we read from annals of 1476: "The greatest part of the population earns its living by growing wine." As recently as the 17th century brewing beer was forbidden so as to assist the struggling vintners.

More recently the limestone has become the basis for the production of gypsum (e.g. sheetrock) and Iphofen is the headquarters of the largest West European gypsum firm, Knauf. Thus, one finds the motto decorating the building above: "Wein Gips und Holz sind Iphofens Stolz" -- translated as: "Wine, plaster (gypsum) and timber (as in half-timbered) are Iphofen's pride."

With such a rich history, a guided tour of the town is a good idea. From Easter to mid November weekly tours are conducted on Saturdays at 10:30AM and last 90 minutes. Also on Sundays in May/June and September/October. (Cost: DM2.50.)

You may join these without prior arrangement by meeting in front of the Tourist Office, though note the tours are conducted in German. You can arrange for the same tour at any other time and in English by making prior arrangements through the Tourist Office. The tours cost DM25 (total per group) for from 1 to 15 persons. For larger groups DM2.50 per person. Usually these tours start in front of the Rathaus but guests can be met at their hotel or any other location as well.

Iphofen market square with Rathaus and hotelThere are a number of small hotels and guesthouses. We stayed at the Gasthof Goldene Krone, the pink building to the right of the Rathaus at the end of the central square. The food is hearty and excellent. The Rosskopf family wines (they own and operate the hotel) have consistently won awards year in and year out.

Doubles at the Goldene Krone bullet_star.gif (78 bytes)bullet_star.gif (78 bytes) with bath and breakfast run from DEM100 double, DE70 single -- the best room in the house is #11 at DEM140/night. (2001 prices -- about EUR36 to EUR72.) (The bullet_star.gif (78 bytes)bullet_star.gif (78 bytes)bullet_star.gif (78 bytes) Zehntkeller is a bit more upscale with doubles starting at DM180 (EUR92.03); others in town slide down the price scale.) Room reservations are a good idea, particularly on many weekends.

There's little English spoken at the hotel, but a few words of English, a few words of German, and the helpful staff's gestures and friendly smiles made our stay quite pleasant. Unless you speak German, we suggest making reservations by fax. (No problems with written-English requests and replies.)
(Tel: 49 9323 33 30 Fax: 49 9323 63 41)

While there's no need to eat anywhere else than the Goldene Krone (as the crowds will attest) it's hard to find a bad meal in Iphofen, or Franconia. The food at the Romantik Hotel Zehntkeller is reputedly excellent; we had neither time nor purse to sample.

Among other commendable sampled restaurants: the Würzburger Hof in Kitzingen (Jägerbraten was outstanding) and the Weisses Ross in Iphofen (both quite inexpensive for Germany, about DM40-45 for a hearty meal and a glass of wine). Want a break from hearty Bavarian food? A good Italian restaurant, O Sole Mio, is just five minutes from Iphofen in Grosslangheim.

Rothenburg RathausThe justly famous medieval preserve of Rothenburg ob der Tauber (its Rathaus to the left) is only 30 minutes away, Nürnberg 60, and perhaps two more hours to München. In Rothenburg you may enjoy a meal at he Baumeisterhaus on Obere Schmidgasse, just off the main square. Very atmospheric and excellent food; a bit expensive, but good value-for-money.

There's a great deal to see in the triangle between Würzburg, Bamberg and Iphofen. A bit further southward at the end of the Romantic Road lie King Ludwig's castles. Sights around Iphofen are as enjoyable as any in the world.

Note that the Iphofen train station, as in many small German cities, is more tram stop than Hauptbahnhof and is at the edge of town. A shelter on one side, a ticket vending machine, a place to cross the tracks. (The old station is now an office for the Knauf firm.) No lockers; no taxis.

The excellent German rail system serves Iphofen with hourly service in each direction between Nürnberg and Würzburg. Würzburg is the second stop from Frankfurt, a 90-minute trip; a quick change and you're in Iphofen in less than 30 minutes more. A car, however, is a better tool for seeing the area sights.

Approaching from Kitzingen you'll see the town walls andElflein-Iphofen.jpg (16160 bytes) skyline before you arrive.The center of town is an easy one kilometer walk (10-15 minutes) -- bear to your right leaving the station area walking toward the highway and follow the path to your left to the underpass. Follow the sidewalk along Bahnhofstrasse until you come to an opening in the town walls, a hundred yards or so beyond the post office. Follow this somewhat winding street for a couple of hundred yards past the churches and shortly after it narrows considerably you'll be in the town square.

Time Zone
Germany is in the Central European Time Zone, CET, one hour east (later) of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). In the summer this difference changes to two hours. Roughly speaking the sun rises six hours earlier in Iphofen than New York City. If you'd like a bit of help in figuring the time difference between your home and Germany check out the Time Zone Converter

You'll find directions for driving to Iphofen and our thoughts on driving in Germany in Iphofen by Car. North Americans, for some reason, believe driving in Germany to be high-risk. We don't find that at all true.

Ed found driving in Germany on all kinds of roads quite enjoyable. Julie had her teeth unclenched by the time our flight to New York had reached 10,000 feet! Seriously, there's no reason to avoid the autobahns or driving in Germany at all. Germans are surely the best drivers in Europe.

We're often asked about appropriate clothing for a visit to Europe. Put briefly, what you'd wear back home in the same situation and kind of place generally works well in Europe. If you've more questions about this you may find our notes on Dressing for Success helpful.

Current Weather Report

Current Weather
Conditions

Based on visits at the ends of March and September we'd guess Franconian weather is similar to what you'd find in New Hampshire, for example. They seem to get more clouds and rain than we're used to in the US Midwest, at least in the early Spring and early Fall.

Holidays, at least unexpected ones, can spoil a vacation. This link will fill you in on holidays in Germany which, as in most of Europe, are greater in number than in the US.

The tourist office will be quite helpful with information about Iphofen and the immediate area. For specific information about other destinations -- for example, Würzburg, Bamberg, Rothenburg or the Royal Castles area, see their respective web sites.

Tourist info symbolThe staff at the Iphofen Visitor Office will be pleased to help make your visit to Iphofen as enjoyable as possible and speaks and writes English quite well. The office is located around the corner from the town square on the street running off the left of the square just before the courtyard in front of the Rathaus.
(By e-mail: verkehr@t-online.de, or at
Marktplatz 26, 97346 IPHOFEN;
phone: 011-49-9323-8715 44,
fax: 9323-8715 55.)

Einersheimer Tor

Einersheimer
Gate

Recorded history for Iphofen dates to 741. After growing for six centuries the settlement became, officially, a city, more than a century before Columbus tripped over the Americas.

Technically the community remains a city (Stadt.) From a size standpoint it is more a "town" or large "village" in English. In 1972 the six adjacent villages were placed under the Stadt's administrative responsibility. Iphofen proper has a population of around 3,000, with another 1,500 citizens living in the incorporated communities.

Iphofen's past, as Franconia's, is full of strife:

Bullet In the 16th century its citizens experienced firsthand the turmoil of the Peasants' Wars, and saw more hardship during the Thirty Years War a century later.
Bullet In 1632 alone the town was looted 14 times, and the few remaining residents took shelter in the forests. As throughout Europe, the Plague ravaged the town several times.
Bullet The mayor was kidnapped in 1759 by a group of Prussian soldiers and held for ransom under threat of burning the tow. The Emperor's troops saved the mayor, though not the money.
Bullet Control of the city passed from the Electorate of Bavaria to Prussia in 1805, then back to Bavaria in August of 1806. In September of the same year Iphofen again became Prussian, until November when Napoleon took control. In 1809 Austria first ruled, then again France, and then Bavaria. In 1812 French and Russian troops marched back and forth through (and over) the town.

More recently, the death toll of the two World Wars brought more tragedy.

Iphofen LogoHappily the last 50 years have been more calm. Out of the tragedies of the past the town and its citizens honor their heritage while looking to the future.

If awakening to a hearty German breakfast and a stroll on the moat around medieval walls overshadowed by a hillside of grapevines, or a journey through time along cobblestoned streets lined with half-timbered buildings, is your idea of getting away from it all, you'll love Iphofen. It's like heaven with two Autobahns 15 minutes away!

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