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Visiting Neuschwanstein
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a shortcut route between Neuschwanstein and Linderhof |
First, the builder and his fairytale castle ...
s the last half of the 19th century began most of Germany and the rest of the world prepared for the modern age. Bavaria was different.
The country was blessed, or cursed, by a romantic, withdrawn, imaginative monarch. Considered by some to be 'mad', he was more likely just mis-focused, for a head of state. He much preferred dreamy pastimes to governing well.
The past, castles, Wagner and the Ring Cycle occupied Ludwig II far more than the evolving world and state affairs. His principal legacy is three decadent but splendid royal residences, Neuschwanstein, Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee.
Ludwig died under mysterious circumstances. He'd been deposed. Did government officials want to assure he not regain power? Was he truly mad and drowned himself (and his doctor?!) in a few inches of water? Continuing to spend truly a fortune on his castles, was it a revolt by taxpayers? Did he grieve over lost popularity and power to complete his dreams? No one will ever know. The mystery only adds to the aura of these last-of-a-kind retreats from the world.
Medieval Splendorudwig moved into Neuschwanstein only after 16 years of construction. It was unfinished at his death less than two years later, and remains so. With even the small portion of the interior that is completed, we're left with an architectural masterpiece. The setting is superb. The view of the castle, especially from the Marienbrücke, is brilliant. The overall exterior design is sublime, if gaudy. The interior conception and execution is faultlessly grand. vertouristed, overdone, Bavarian kitsch ... it's all of these. Some suggest avoiding it. Don't listen to them. It's striking, and a visit you'll neither forget nor regret. Touring the Castleour tour will take 30-45 minutes. However you should organize your day to allow for considerably more time there. It will take a while to get up to the castle, on foot, by horse carriage or minivan. You may have to wait for the carriage or van depending on season and time of day. The walk is roughly 20-30 minutes, steeply uphill. If you arrive later in the day parking can be a bit difficult to find as well. hile you can ride up to near the castle, you will, whether or not you want to, walk the last 200 or so meters to the castle. It's a pretty steep walk. Although, if the wait for the minivan or carriage appears to be long you may save considerable time by walking up. nce up at the castle the wait can run from almost none, rare, to two hours or more. As many as 40,000 visitors on a peak day in August or September. Shoulder months of April-July and October are lighter but still crowded. Daily crowds are only 10,000 in the 'slow' months. You'll have less of a wait, usually, the earlier in the day you get there. Tours start at 0830 or 0900.
You'll wait, or at least be 'organized' into language groups, before your tour in the exterior courtyard. You'll climb two or three stories of stairs to the starting point. You'll climb another two or three stories during the course of the tour, then descend back to the ground level to your exit through the royal kitchens. on't be discouraged by all this walking uphill and stair climbing. It's not arduous for most of us. (Admittedly, if you're an average out of shape middle-aged American like us you prefer to take the carriage or minivan up ... and perhaps down.)
hile at the castle, after your tour, be sure and take the extra effort and time to walk up to the Marienbrücke (bridge). You'll find a spectacular view of the castle and surrounding area. In fact, Marienbrücke is the only vantage point from which you'll fully recognize the castle from its Disneyland clone or the many travel posters and calendars ... unless you have a helicopter. The path to the Marienbrücke begins where the minivans and carriages stop. f you're lucky with the waits you could in the same day do either Hohenschwangau across the way or Linderhof. The latter is about an hour or so drive away going by the back road through Reutte in Austria. We recommend Linderhof as the better second visit. Bavaria with
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