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Rome

Roma, non basta una vita!

Sights and Walks

Less Well-Known Sights

Domus Aurea | Vatican Excavations | Borghese Gallery | Moses

Ranking the Top Attractions | Suggested Itineraries
Beyond the Basics | Less Well-known Sites |
Visiting Hours
Retreats from Big-city Hustle and Bustle
Excursions Beyond the City's Walls | Beneath the City

Complete Index of Articles on Rome/Italy

A reminder: operating hours for most of these attractions may be found at Rome Visiting Hours.

The Borghese Gallery is at the east side of the Villa Borghese and now is close to a 'must see' if for no other reason than the fact that it had been closed for restoration for fourteen years. (!) (Yes, Chiuso per Ristauro is a dread phrase.)

The builder of the Palazzina Borghese, Cardinal Scipione Borghese built this 'suburban villa' for entertaining, and at the same time amassed one of the world's greatest private collections of sculptures and paintings, much given to the the Louvre at the time of Napoleon. The remains are nonetheless one of Rome's finest patrician collections.

The principal works include the notorious (at the time) nearly-nude sculpture of Pauline Borghese (Napoleon's sister), Bernini's David, and Daphne and Apollo, Raphael's Deposition and other works by Titian, Bellini, del Sarto, Perugino and Caravaggio.

This remains a 'hot ticket' in town. Reservations aren't mandatory, but strongly recommended. (Only 300 visitors at a time are permitted.)  Tours start every two hours. Go to the museum's website and you will find a link to reserve. You can also reserve by phone (011 39 06 32810) or fax (011 39 06 326 51329). An English speaker should be available.

Price is ITL10,000 plus ITL2,000 for the reservation. Guided tours in English available on request at certain times through 011 39 06 8555952 for a cost of ITL6,000. (No credit cards for either.)

Show up an hour before your appointed time at the desk in the basement of the museum; you'll need your reservation number to claim your tickets. You'll be allowed two hours in the galleries.

While you're in the Villa Borghese area consider visiting the Villa Giulia, the city's fine collection of Etruscan artifacts. Relatively little is known of the civilization which pre-dates the Roman. Much of Rome's traditions and culture appear to stem from the Etruscans. You'll find the museum just outside the northeast corner of the park. It's a rewarding visit.

The collections are interesting, if presented diffidently. It's, sadly, rarely visited, and poorly maintained. It's easily accessible by subway (EUR Fermi), perhaps a 10 minute ride from Termini. It's a pleasant and instructive way to spend an hour or two. The proper name is Museo della Civilta Romana, address Piazza Agnelli 10, EUR. Phone 06-5926135.The Rome city website has a small map to help you find your way in EUR.

The Museum of Roman Civilization at EUR contains a 'plastico', or scale model (much like an extensive train set) of Rome as it looked early in the Christian era. Many of the 'Rome Reconstructed' pictures you'll find in books sold on the street are taken from that model. Viewed from a balcony above, you'll be able easily to recognize many of the remains evident now, and many major streets which run today the same route as 2000 years ago. Visited by few, it's been one of Ed's favorites for years.

One of the all-time highlights of our visits was a visit to the Necropolis beneath St. Peter's. St. Peter was buried in a cemetery. When Constantine built the church in his honor and name it was set above the spot where he was thought to be buried, covering the cemeteries in the area. (Further information and tour booking info.) You'll also find info about the tour of the Vatican Gardens on the same page; it's also a gem, and also requires advance reservations.

The area of the remains of the Baths of Diocletian, near Stazione Termini is interesting. A church was carved out of a portion of the baths by Michaelangelo. The National Museum is there, and depending on which portions are open, you'll find excellent examples of Roman art including statuary and fine mosaics. Nearby Piazza Esedra, its shape and foundations taken from one of the bath buildings, is quite pleasant and has a lovely fountain, with an interesting tale.

Two young sisters from a town in the nearby hills posed for the figures of the maidens in the fountain -- half-naked -- a shocking thing in Victorian Rome. In the 1960s these women, then in their 70s or 80s, came to town each Sunday and had coffee at a table in the piazza, reminiscing about how lovely they had been as young women.

Around the corner from the baths facing Piazza Cinquecento you'll find the National Museum of the Baths. Closed for several years, it's now reopened with a collection of the best of the ancient statuary found in the city.

Image Map - Use Links in Text

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Domus Aurea (Nero's Golden House) had been closed for 18 years. A few dozen of the more than 150 rooms were in renovation over the last five years of the 20th century at a cost of 5 billion (yes, billion) Italian lire. We last saw it more than 20 years ago in its ruined state. This is a must see.

Reservations required and you can book at 011-39-06-4815576 or 3974907. Groups are limited to just 25 people for each of the 45-minute tours; three groups may be going at the same time. Tickets cost Lit.10,000 plus a 2,000 booking fee.

warning.gif (151 bytes)Dateline: Rome, May 5, 2001
A portion of the Domus Aurea's ceiling collapsed today after closing time. No one was injured, fortunately. Rome authorities expect the palace to be reopened, at least partially, by Wednesday, May 9.

Across the street from Augustus' tomb is one of the 'original' Alfredo's. We've enjoyed it for years, though you'll not find it in our restaurant recommendations as the service was snarly on our last visit. You may want to try it though; the fettuccine was still excellent, as well as the deep fried zucchini.

Ara Pacis is a monument erected on order of Augustus marking the end of the struggles leading to his emperorship. It is near the river. While a small and seemingly drab object, the sculpted reliefs on it are of excellent quality and represent the best images we have of Augustus and his family. Not far away, to the east, are the remains of Augustus' Mausoleum.

San Clemente - two layers of Christian churches, built on the remains of an old house used for early Christian worship plus Mithraic cult worship site - all layers still visible.

Just down the road from the foot of the Campidoglio, the 'Mouth of Truth' at Santa Maria in Cosmedin is of interest, as are the nearby temples, square arch (Arch of Janus) and the Theater of Marcellus.

(According to tradition, if you lie while your hand is placed in the Mouth, it will bite you. More prosaically, it's actually an artfully decorated ancient manhole cover!)

Across from the Roman Forum on the via dei Fori Imperiali are the several Imperial Forums, and the quite interesting Trajan's Column, Marketplace, and Library. The Marketplace is now reopened and conatains as well a small museum.

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Courtesy of and
©
Romanhomes

San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) is not a stunning church, but is quite noteworthy for Michaelangelo's magnificent statue of Moses. Michaelangelo, and Ed, felt this work superior to the Pieta.

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Courtesy of and
©
Romanhomes

A bit difficult to find, it's on Piazza San Pietro in Vincoli. On foot reached most easily from via Cavour. There is a flight of stairs on your right coming from the Forum about three+ blocks up from via dei Fori Imperiale. The stairs are just to the north of via degli Annabaldi. Another access is from Annabaldi which runs from the right side of the Colosseo Metro station. Cavour is the nearest Metro stop to the church.

The church was thorougly renovated for the Jubilee and shines more brightly than ever and "The Moses Project" is restoring the statue for the first time.

Remains of Republican Era temples are found at the bus terminal at Largo Torre Argentina on via Vittorio Emmanuele II. This area has always fascinated us, but we've never had a chance to explore it.

Now it has become the Torre Argentina Cats of Rome Sanctuary, the romping grounds for 300 abandoned house cats who are cared for by a multinational group of volunteers. Whether or not you're a cat fancier you'll enjoy a tour of the underground shelter that is an excavation of one of the temples. Here's your chance to explore what we've missed!

Finally, what is most less well-known in Rome are the underground remains. Somewhat off the beaten track, and often only for visitors with no sense of claustrophobia, much of Rome's remains are out of sight ... perhaps more in total than remain above ground. Here's a brief introduction to Rome Underground.

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Last Revision July 9, 2001

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