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Europe by Trainby Frank T. StephanWe started traveling about twenty years ago and hardly a year has gone by during which we did not cross the Atlantic at least once and spent anywhere from two to four weeks visiting the various countries of Europe. At first we mostly traveled by air. We flew to any one of the major European cities, checked into a hotel and remained there for several days. While we got to know a lot of European capitols and other larger cities, we never felt we really saw the country. We began renting a car and driving around, but still staying primarily on the major highways and subsequently seeing little of the countryside. Then, we heard about the various rail passes and decided to give them a try. That was the best decision we could have made. Not only did we learn that, in view of high European fuel prices, it was more economical to travel by train, but most importantly it is so much more convenient and relaxing. Especially compared with public transport being what it is in the US, Americans and Canadians we have met and talked to were full of enthusiasm about the cleanliness of trains, the frequency of service and the reliable schedule performance of the rail system in general. We frequently heard comments such as "this is what public transportation should be like" or "Amtrak would do well to copy itself after the European railways". We normally fly into Frankfurt, Germany and from there start our itinerary by train. One reason for choosing Frankfurt as our starting point is the convenience it offers when transferring from the airplane to the train. The railroad station is located within the Rhein Main Airport Terminal and only about a five minute walk after exiting the customs area. But the main reason is that Germany is our favorite country to visit, followed closely by Austria, Switzerland and the Netherlands. That is why we again and again return there on everyone of our trips, even if it is just for a little sightseeing out of the train window. |
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When planning our trip, we find it extremely helpful to rely much on the information available on the Internet. The Deutsche Bahn AG (German Railway ... "DB") has an outstanding website, not only providing reliable schedule information throughout Europe, but also answers to many questions and concerns we may have. We even make our seat- and sleeper reservations via e-mail and we don't have to pay for them until we actually pick them up upon our arrival in Germany. If you're using a rail pass you may send an e-mail to DB-SCNM@t-online.de, if you're planning on using individual tickets you can reserve seats/sleepers at the same time you make your train reservations through the DB website. Other useful websites are SBB Online (Swiss Rails) , SNCF, French Railways, Links to other Railways as well as Rail Europe. Some include even boat, bus and cable car schedules. Several kinds of rail passes are available, but we prefer the Eurailpass. It allows us unlimited travel everywhere on Europe’s extensive rail network, from major cities to remote villages, in and between 17 countries - Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Hungary, Italy, Luxembourg, Norway, Portugal, Republic of Ireland, Spain, Sweden and Switzerland. There are five pass duration to choose from - anywhere from 15 days to 3 months, all for first class travel. For travelers under the age of 26 there are also passes available which allow the use of second class tickets. Of course, the price is considerably lower and the money saved comes in handy especially when one is on a limited budget. A condition not so unusual among the younger ones of us. In addition there are special bonuses, such as free or discounted travel on river steamers, operated by the Köln-Düsseldorf German Rhein Line for a number of routes on the Rhine and Mosel Rivers, the paddle steamer service on several lakes, including the ones in Geneva and Lucerne in Switzerland, travel on private trains such as mountain rail- and cable car services. Also ferry crossings between Sweden and Finland, as well as Italy and Greece. Details and prices can be found on the Internet at the Rail Europe website.: Also, for additional information as well as ordering of rail passes, you may contact, The Complete Traveler. When we plan our trip, we try to coordinate night- and daytime travel. For the latter we select the most scenic routes or short distances between destinations at which we would like to detrain. Often we backtrack in order to come up with the right combination. Not all night trains carry sleeping cars with showers, either private within the compartment or for common use at either end of the car. Although they all are equipped with washbasins, including soap and towels, we schedule ourselves in such a way that we never have to go without a good and thorough cleaning of our bodies for more than a day, either by making sure that showers are provided on the train or by overnighting at a hotel during the next night. Granted, sleeping compartments on trains do not offer all the comforts and conveniences one normally finds in a hotel. Nevertheless, the beds are quite comfortable and the motion of the moving train, combined with the rhythm of the wheels gliding over the well maintained tracks, make us fall asleep in no time at all. But best of all, we are adding another day to our vacation by going to sleep in one city and waking up in another. A word of caution, though. While the car attendants are normal quite reliable in waking you up in the morning in plenty of time to get ready before the train arrives at your destination, there are occasional exceptions. So, it is a good idea to bring along your own alarm clock. Although most of the countries’ railway systems nowadays operate modern and comfortable rolling stock, we are most familiar with the one of the Deutsche Bahn.
All long distance trains such as the ICE (InterCityExpress), EC (EuroCity) and IC (InterCity), carry dining cars, sort of an on-board restaurant, serving anything from hot and cold beverages, to a quick bite to eat, to regular meals, often including local specialties. Many other trains have a bistro offering light snacks, although only with a limited selection. On most others passengers are being served at their seats from a portable minibar with trolley service. Nevertheless, since food and beverage prices onboard trains are somewhat inflated, it is quite common and acceptable to bring your own food and beverages to consume without leaving your seat. Almost all, if not all, IC, EC and ICE trains have telephones for inland and international calls. Phonecards are being sold onboard. ICE trains even have their own telephone number on which one can be reached. Messages are left on the answering machine and the passenger receiving the call will be paged. All of these trains as well as the IR (InterRegio) offer 1st and 2nd class service. Many of them are equipped with special facilities for the disabled and passengers traveling with children. Seat reservations are not required on most trains, but are recommended. As a rule of thumb, we reserve seats whenever the duration of a segment is in excess of two hours and always when traveling on ICE trains. Of course, reservations for sleeping compartments are mandatory. There are, however, trains on which seat reservations can not be made, primarily on such designated as IR and RB. An unforgettable experience is a ride on the newest additions to the German fleet, the InterCityNight (ICN) and CityNightLine (CNL) trains. While the former operate exclusively within Germany, the latter connect Germany with Austria and Switzerland. They are fully air-conditioned, and the use of tilting cars ensures a high level of comfort and undisturbed sleep en route. It also allows the train to move at a higher speed when traveling on winding routes. On the ICN there are three categories to choose from: Comfort Schlafwagen (sleeper), Comfort Liegewagen (couchettes) and Comfort Sitzwagen (sleeperettes). . Sleepers on the ICN carry two-bed compartments, to be used either as a single or double All of them have private facilities including a shower. Not only are the compartments roomier and appointed more elegantly than on regular trains, the beds are wider and furnished with large feather pillows and down-comforters as opposed to regular blankets. In addition to the cost of the railpass, the prices range from approximately $50.00 to $115.00 per person, depending on the route and whether the compartment is being used as a double or single. Breakfast is included and is served either buffet style in the dining car or on a tray in the compartment. Quite comparable with prevailing hotel rates in most European countries. In the Comfort Liegewagen category, compartments contain two couchettes, one above the other. A curtain along the main aisle assures privacy. The price, including a light breakfast is about $25.00 per person. Finally, the least expensive way to spend the night is in a ergonomically designed reclining seat with a footrest in the Comfort Sitzwagen. That will only set you back by about $8.00. An added convenience is the fact that these trains can be boarded as much as two hours prior to scheduled departure time from the origin station. More often than not, after arrival at the final destination one does not have to leave the train immediately, sometime for as long as thirty minutes. There is no stress and/or anxiety in getting on and off the train, a feeling often associated with travel on public transportation. The City Night Line train is not much different from the ICN but has four categories - Deluxe, Comfort, Economy and Reclining. Travelers in Deluxe will have an upstairs cabin either for one or two persons. The two-bed cabin has a table and two chairs, a shower cubicle, toilet and a panoramic window with blinds. The Comfort category consists of a two-bed compartment with washing facilities. Comfort Single means having the compartment to oneself; Comfort Double means two cabins with a connecting door. In that case only the two bottom beds are made up. Economy category consists of either two-bed or four-bed compartments, but also single travelers can use them as long as it is shared with someone of the same gender. All Economy compartments have also washing facilities. Reclining seats are the same as on ICN trains. Approximate prices per person with rail pass: Deluxe single $165.00, Deluxe double $115.00, Comfort single $125.00, Comfort double $100.00, Economy double $78.00, Economy for four $51.00 and Reclining $14.00 - all subject to prevailing exchange rates. We have taken the ICN between Berlin and Bonn, Munich and Hamburg as well as Hamburg and Berlin. In the meantime, we believe, other city pairs have been added. The CNL presently operates From Berlin, Germany to Zurich, Switzerland; Hamburg, Germany to Basel, Switzerland; and Dortmund, Germany to Vienna, Austria. Copyright © 1998-2001 Frank T.
Stephan Helpful resources in print:
Questions about planning a similar
trip? Comments for the author? Frank is a native European, and long-time US citizen and resident. He spent his working life in the airline business. Perhaps in reaction to so much air travel, he and his wife Cynthia, who is a native of the Philippines, spend a good bit of time training through Europe. During the past ten years they have visited just about every country in Europe, including some of those that are not usually considered typical tourist destinations. Would you like to add an article about your travel experiences in Europe? It's easy to do. Our Favorites Trip Tips and Tools The Not-For-Profit Site For Your Travel Plans |
Traveling Europe's Trains (4th Ed)