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Mürren
Especially With Kids
by Glenda Singer

Well, we did make it to Mürren last week and want to thank you for your excellent advice and suggestions. It was the perfect place to go to give our family a taste of Switzerland's incredible beauty and we enjoyed ourselves immensely.

Travelling as we did to Switzerland from desert countries, we saw the richness of the country in terms of water and greenery in high relief. The wildflower fields were endless and the waterfalls and streams exciting. We were all impressed by the log trough in the center of Mürren pouring out water without end.

A few thoughts and details about Mürren :

Until one actually goes through the stages of travelling up to the village, it's hard to get a picture of what's involved and how many switches there are. The funicular up to Grütschalp is incredibly steep and our kids loved it. (It's worth mentionning that one has to leave the train station in Lauterbrunnen, cross the street and go a little to the right and look for the lower funicular landing station.

We headed in the wrong direction up the street and missed the next connection. No matter though, since the funicular runs every 15 minutes we just caught the next one.) We arrived in Mürren in pouring rain and thunder and we prepared to count our trip a wash-out. My husband ran out to one of the shops to get umbrellas or rain ponchos (6 francs in most shops). He also talked with the most helpful people in the Tourist Office, who gave us an alternate "Plan B", rainy-day suggestions of a trip to see the indoor waterfalls at Trümmelbach if the weather stayed rainy tomorrow. Luckily, a few hours later the clouds starting breaking and we could get glimpses here and there of the snow-covered mountains.

We stayed in the Hotel Alpina and were very pleased and would go back again without question. It wasn't too far from the station for us to manage our luggage ourselves, the owners were very nice, and our rooms (2 connected rooms sharing a bath, with excellent breakfast, for 180 SF) had a big L-shaped balcony from which we felt we could reach out and touch the mountains. Dinner that night in the Stäger Stubli, good food and nice waitress.

We learned to order carefully as food prices in most restaurants are quite high, and drinks and extras quickly add up. Soup, salads, and rosti were our choices for budget eating. BTW, this restaurant is closed on Tuesdays.

We took the Schilthorn trip first thing next morning. The kids spotted a playground from the cable car, to which we returned once we got down. The weather was a mix of clouds and sun, but there was enough clarity from times to time to see most of the High Alps and the sensation of being wrapped by the clouds was fascinating. The kids loved the revolving restaurant, shared an ice cream, and "field tested" the restaurant's revolutions. They watched the James Bond film clips in the "Touristrama" and we vowed to rent "On His Majesty's Secret Service" when we got home. By the way, the children got free passage on the Schilthorn trip with the Swiss Family Card, and we paid 40 SF each with a discount for our Swiss Passes.

As I mentioned, when we returned, we climbed a short, steep hill near the cable car station to a children's playground. Cows with bells kept our kids company as they see-sawed and got out energy while we parents enjoyed the spectacular view. Mürren is great for kids because there are several really nice playground scattered through the village, one by the SportsCenter, and even one with a super-long slide on the top of the Allmendhubel funicular. Several statues of animals, fire hydrants painted like funny little people , and pint-sized gardens packed with flowers and vegetables also intrigued our kids. (Not to mention the several souvenir shops with cowbells and knick knacks!)

We bought lunch ingredients at the supermarket in the center, making it there just in time as they were just closing at 12 noon. Most stores and shops close from 12 noon to 2 pm, so it's a good idea to plan ahead if you need to do shopping. We took the funicular up to Allmendhubel, intending to walk to Grütschalp and there take the train back to Mürren. The hike wasn't quite as easy as we thought, as there was a bit more up and down than we planned for. I'm sure most experienced hikers would laugh at this and consider it just a minor stroll, but as we were not used to hiking and were just wearing flimsy sneakers, we took the advice of a kind Swiss family hiking along the way, who said that the rest of the way was quite rocky, and turned off the path onto a branch that led back to either Mürren or Winteregg. Remembering that there was yet another playground in Winteregg, with a restaurant AND a train station back to Mürren, this seemed to be a good decision.

Now the fun and excitement started! Unbeknownest to us the path led right through a herd of enormous cows blocking the only path down! We were not expecting to be quite so close to nature, but we parents put on a confident front and led the kids through the herd, fully expecting to be charged any minute by an irate bull or at least an angry Swiss farmer! We made it through and found ourselves on the wrong side of a cattle gate. We climbed over and were sure we were totally lost, but a little further down was one of the ubiquitous yellow direction markers leading us to Winteregg. Then out of the forest came a procession of pigs! Well, it was our most memorable experience and I'm sure the kids won't forget it soon.

We made it to Winteregg, played and ate a snack, then trained back to Mürren. Dinner that night at the Eiger Stubli. They have a well-priced kid's menu and even though my 12 year old son balked at ordering by name one "Goofy" (fish sticks) he enjoyed it as did my daughter her "Mickey" (spaghetti) for around 10 SF. This restaurant lets you order cheese fondue for 1 (most others require 2 people ordering it) for 19 SF. Very good service and food.

While taking a stroll after dinner we noticed that Mürren has a cheese shop with all sorts of cheese T-shirts, fanny packs, knives and cutters, fondue and raclette pots, etc etc! Since we are big "Wallace and Gromit" fans, we felt Mürren would be a great place for a Cheese Holiday. The next morning we regrettfully left Mürren for Luzerne. The Tourist Office in Mürren printed off a schedule of direct trains for us and by leaving Mürren at 9, made it to Luzerne by 1 pm. The ride went through Brienz and the lake scenery was gorgeous. We toured Luzerne in the afternoon, the highlight being the Hall of Mirrors at the Glacial Gardens. If we had more time we would have liked to go to the Transportation Museam, but energy was lacking, and just feeding the swans by the Kapelle bridge was plenty for us.

I do think that if I had to do it again, we would stay overnight in Zürich rather than Luzern. Perhaps for experienced old-hands like you , you can easily get to your flight at Zürich airport in time, but for us, with kids and checked luggage to retrieve in the airport, the timing was too tight. We even left Luzern on the 7:10 train to allow plenty of time, but it took us until 8:40 to get to the airport, then we had trouble finding exactly where and which left luggage place we had to go to, plus needing to go up and down via elevators rather than escalators because we needed luggage carts slowed us down.

It turned out our left luggage was in Terminal B, and there was just 1 man slowly working there. After finally getting it, we had to run to Terminal A, wait in long lines to check in, walk through passport control, then dash to the plane. I had envisioned using up our remaining Swiss francs in leisurely Duty-free shopping. Instead, we grabbed some chocolates as gifts and zipped off to our 10:20 plane. Still, we did make it okay, and though a bit tense, did not mar our great stay in Switzerland.

Would we go back to Mürren ? Absolutely ! We loved the quiet and calm beauty and hope one day to do more touring there. We felt our stay was long enough to get a feel for the area and show our children a bit of Switzerland and a glimpse of another culture.

Copyright © 1997 Glenda Singer

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Published July 20, 1997

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