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Malta, an Unlikely
Vacation Destination?

  by Lyle Bungart

Why did we go there? Let me quote from the Saga Holidays brochure. "Unique among the Mediterranean islands, Malta is an independent country just south of Sicily that has been drawing European travelers for years. From quaint fishing villages and picturesque harbors to temples and megaliths left by prehistoric inhabitants, Malta boasts a fascinating blend of natural beauty and colorful history." We spent two weeks there and enjoyed it immensely.

Those of you old enough to remember WWII probably know that Malta was England’s "stationary aircraft carrier" in the Med. As such, it was bombed ferociously by the Axis powers but the limestone base of the island provided both natural and tunneled bomb-shelters. Malta made an invaluable contribution to the success of the Allied effort in the Mediterranean theater of war. That was then, but this is now, and Malta has moved on.

Malta warrants a leisurely investigation. We were there in May when the average high is 71F. If you like hotter temperatures, go in July or August when the average high exceeds 90F.

Our base, for the entire 14 nights, was the Hotel Santana in Qawra. It boasted an indoor and rooftop pool, several good restaurants and was just a block away from a bus stop. Bus fares are remarkably low and permit you to explore all parts of the island. We were two blocks away from the pleasant promenade along the St. Paul’s Bay, an inlet from the Mediterranean. Here’s my personal assessment of the attractions you shouldn’t miss.

Valleta is the capital city of Malta with both an inner and outer harbor, protected by ancient forts and city walls. The sloping cobbled streets are filled with vendors, tourists and natives. Climb the stairs to the top of the city walls and visit the Upper Barraca Gardens and enjoy the view of the harbors. Be sure to visit the Grand Master’s Palace, its adjacent armory, and the Archeological Museum. If an "In Guardia" performance is scheduled at Fort St. Elmo, don’t miss this medieval pageantry. If churches are your thing, visit the Co-Cathedral of St. John. Either way, enjoy a pleasant lunch in an outdoor café in the park in front of the church.

Mdina (yes, I spelled that correctly) is also known as "The Silent City". Completely walled in and admitting no vehicles other than those of residents, you truly feel you are lost in time. Walk every narrow street and alleyway, ending up at the far end of the city wall looking over a verdant valley. The shops have interesting goods for sale. The restaurants abound, but find the one, on the rear city wall that seats you at an outdoor table overlooking the valley.

Fishing villages abound. My favorite is Marsaxlokkmalta1.jpg (9490 bytes) (pronounced "marsaschlock) on the far end of the island. The colorful fishing boats with their "eyes" of Osiris on the bows will tempt you into using up all your film right here. An open-air market extends around the harbor with many opportunities for shopping and dining. We had a picnic lunch here under the structure just in front of the church.

There are numerous relics of Neolithic Malta to visit. We saw the temples at Tarxien and Hagra Quinn plus the cave at Ghar Dalam where the earliest humans lived 7,200 years ago. These represent some of the oldest remnants of human activity in Europe. We were able to walk, carefully, about 250 ft. inside the cave at Ghar Dalam. The huge standing megaliths at Hagra Quim were especially impressive, sited as they were, on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean.

 Gozo is a smaller adjacent island, and a part of the malta2.jpg (8220 bytes)country of Malta. Regular ferry rides connect the two and a day here is well spent. Enroute, you go past the even smaller island of Comino with its unusual blue lagoon. The capital city of Gozo is Victoria and this is the heart of the lace-making craftsmen. At one end of the island an inland pond connects to the sea through caves in the rugged cliffs. Small boats will take you through these on an unforgettable jaunt.

Among other attractions, the Rotunda Church of Mosta, one of the three largest of its kind in Europe, is worth a look. If you ride the local busses you can hardly avoid it as Mosta is a central point on nearly all lines. Malta has very few sandy beaches. The rugged coastline offers the most natural scenery. One way to appreciate this is on an all-day boat tour around Malta, Gozo and Comino. The cliffs at Dingli are particularly impressive. The coastline has many inlets and grottos , which can also be approached by land. I managed to get my shoes thoroughly soaked taking the picture at right.

I’ve probably omitted some attractions for which other travelers would chastise me. Museums and churches never ranked highly on my vacation agenda and there are many more than I’ve mentioned here. If you’re a beach lover, head for Golden Bay. There are botanical gardens, golf courses, water sports of all kinds, and good local wines too. If you’ve read this far, you’ll probably enjoy Malta too.
Copyright © 1998 Lyle Bungart
Published July 10, 1998
Last Revision:August 17, 1998

Lyle is a bona-fide mountain nut of some 74 years standing. Having first gazed in awe at the Rocky Mountains during a brief posting in Colorado Springs in 1942, he returned frequently. Some of these trips were
vacations, but two were colossal failures in finding a job that would permit him to relocate. Undaunted, he retired and moved there eight years ago. He claims to have traveled more Colorado roads than most natives. He first toured the San Juans in commercial Jeeps, later rented them, then bought them. At last count, he's on his third Cherokee, none of which were damaged on 4WD roads
... so far.

Questions about planning a similar trip? Comments for the author?
lyleab@pipeline.com


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