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San Leo,
Italy
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| Our Drive Into Town, Next Time When we returned a couple of years later we again watched a few vehicles drive up that unbelievable road, turn right and disappear, then to our surprise and wonder, there went a small city bus. We knew that if the bus made it, we could make it. Once you visit here, you will be able to imagine our apprehension as we drove up the niche, found huge mirrors that showed no traffic was leaving town, turned into the hole that turned out to be the city gate, then up the narrow rough stone street and into the town square. That look on the policeman's face wasn't just one of surprise, but he smiled and let us know that just to the right, then to the left, then, É well somewhere beyond, there was a parking lot. A parking lot that most likely hadn't seen too many vehicles the size of our RV. San Leo's Castle But what a beautiful little town. The magnificent castle, built in the 1400's, perched on the edge of a cliff was the one mentioned in the 'Divine Comedy.' During the years since, it has been used as a prison, but recently it has been renovated and unlike most castles, is well worth the walk up the hill. Count Alessandro di Cagliostro was imprisoned and died here, and our Encyclopedia calls Cagliostro an 'Italian charlatan.' He had talents for medical science, was a cheat, a counterfeiter, a magician, an Italian, and ... well, we'll just leave it at that. Renovation of the Old Church San Leo has a beautiful old church, called a Pre-Romanesque parish church, built in the 700's, that was closed during our first visit, and was being renovated the second time we were here. We peeked inside and could see the building just filled with scaffolding that permitted the artisans to work on the huge pillars and the high ceiling. The beautiful stonework, both inside and out, was being returned to its original luster. Nearby was the new church, built in 1173. Get that, San Leo's new church is nearly a 1000 years old. Just to put those dates in prospective; the old church was 400 to 500 hundred years old before the new church was built; 750 years old before Columbus discovered America; and 1,000 years old when our United States was founded. There's no building in the US that compares to either church. The Wedding Party We watched as a small wedding party awaited the arrival of a car bringing the bride. The groom met her with a bouquet of flowers, and the whole occasion was being recorded by three people with video cameras. We stayed to the side, out of the way, since we looked out of place in our tourist grungies, while all around us people were dressed in finery, and San Leo's church was decorated with flowers for the wedding. The Motorcycle Club The next time we visited San Leo, just as we made the mirror-assisted turn we met a police car that managed to get off to the side, so we could continue to the center of town. Part of the town square was filled with tables, loaded with food and drink, but very few people. A half-hour later we heard the roar as a motorcycle club came into town for a celebration of some kind. We were invited to partake of the food by the waiters and waitresses who either didn't care who ate from the bountiful supply, or couldn't tell the difference between tourists from California and members of an Italian motorcycle club. One Renovation Complete, One Just Started Now we found the renovation of the old, old parish church was complete. We had arrived in town while the church was jammed with parishioners for the Sunday morning church service, but when the service ended, we were permitted to wander inside. The ancient glistening stones resounded with the myriad voices of the parish church organ, as we enjoyed our examination of the freshened stone and the magnificently renovated building. The exquisite thousand year old 'new' church just next door is built in what they call the Lombard - Romanesque style. Since the renovation of the 'old' church is now complete, we weren't surprised when we visited the 'new' church and saw it was full of scaffolding, undergoing its turn at refreshment. Since we remember the interior as being beautiful and awe inspiring the last time we looked, we wonder how it can be improved. Well, we remember the glorious results when the stone was cleaned in the parish church across the way, and in huge Gothic Cathedrals in several countries, so we intend to visit San Leo again some day soon to make sure they have completed the renovation of the 'new' church, just as they did the old. Copyright © 1998 Jim and Emmy Humberd Questions about planning a similar trip? Comments for
the author? Jim and Emmy have savored nine fantastic trips to Europe. They travel with the idea that if they have no schedule, they aren't late; if they have no itinerary they're exactly where they ought to be. They travel in a Recreation Vehicle because their clothes are on a hanger, there are goodies in the refrigerator, and they know who used the toilet last. Would you like to add an article about your travel experiences in Europe? It's easy to do. Our Favorites Trip Tips and Tools The Not-For-Profit Site For Your
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