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Daytripping to
Ostia Antica

by Walter

From Termini, Rome's main train station,  to Ostia Antica takes about 50 minutes and requires one very easy change from the Metro to a commuter train. You can get there and back with 2 Rome Metro/bus tickets or 1 Metro/bus daypass (6000L) or a weekly pass (24,000L).

Take Metro Line "B" towards "Laurentina" and get off at the "Piramide" stop (4 stops/6min from Termini). It's a small station, Metro stop is outside but below street level and the Lido trains are unseen but parallel to the Metro tracks at street level.   Exit Metro car and turn left and you will see escalator/stairs and a sign "Ferrovia Roma-Lido".

Top of stairs, turn left (crossing over the metro tracks) and you will see six platforms. All of these trains go Lido and stop at Ostia Antica, but not all are used during the off-peak non-rush hours. An electronic signboard at the head of the platform will show which train is leaving shortly and at what time (maybe 10-15min before departure). There is a w.c. in the station and on Platform 6

If you have time step*right outside the station and see the Pyramid of Cestius c.18-12BC and the Ostia Gate & walls from AD 271-5, or visit the Protestant Cemetery.

Board the train and to ease your mind look above the door and see the train stop map. Ostia Antica is perhaps in 5 or 6 stops, about 25minutes. At the Ostia Antica, stop when you first get off the train, just across the tracks will be the small station. Just to the left is a w.c & water faucet, and ~30M away in front of the station is a blue pedestrian overpass that you want to take.

Exit the platform via the pedestrian tunnel and into the station. Just walk over the highway on the walkway and go straight. In about 100m you cross a 2 lane road and the parking lot for the site is 50m in front of you. In the parking lot the ticket booth (w.c.) & entrance is 50m to the left. Tickets are 8000L and I suggest getting the audio guide (8000L. They required a picture ID (good reason to have your driver's license with you), not a credit card).

Also have on hand or buy a guidebook and map of the site. Don't forget to visit the museum (w.c.) (to the back, right of the site). Also be sure to bring water or even better pack a small picnic lunch and have a quiet picnic in any of the hundreds of secluded out of the way spots.

After the audio guide tour is over be certain to visit the western end of the site. You can walk around so alone among the maze-like buildings and paths and make amazing discoveries on your own. I like the area in the V section of the Decumanus Maximus and via Della Foce. Look for a 2 story building that you can climb on top of in this area (good view). That particular area has some excellent areas to explore and find mosaics, frescos and some pretty cool rooms.

One overlooked really cool site is under the Baths of Mithras where the "Mithras and the Bull" statue was found, now in the museum but replaced by a copy. On the main road thru the site (Decumanus Maximus) ~75m west of the Capitolium/Forum area, you come upon a main intersection. There is a road (90deg) to your left & right and the main road goes straight but at a slight left angle. At a 45deg angle to your right there is a road/path; take it.

You will see on the right two red tile covered, protected sites followed by five trees in a row. Take a right after the fifth tree. You will come upon the Baths on your right (it's the last ruin, 2 columns and a taller lone column with a capital on top.)

Now see the short (3 sections, 1m high) modern cast iron fence (NW corner of the Baths). Below that is the entrance to under the baths and statue. If you walk past the statue there is a maze-like tunnel that takes you under the baths, and you can see how they operated.
Copyright © 2001 Walter
Published July 13, 2001

Walter is a truck driver with a love for history and museums. He's a unique traveler in the detailed way in which he captures directions so others may enjoy where he has been as well.

You can reach Walter at paradiselost@webtv.net

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