Elba
The Past -
Piracy and Protection
  by Jan Sommer

Chronology
Etruscan era: 1000 BC-500 BC
Roman era: 500 BC-400 AD
Medieval city-states: c. 12th century
(Pisan domination)
Cosimo do Medeci: c. 15th century
(Florentine domination)
Napoleon 1814-15

Elba's history and geography were in part defined by piracy. Ancient and medieval towns like Poggio and Marciana were sited uphill from the sea with a good view of the Mediterranean five miles away.

Surrounding walls and narrow twisty streets were designed to enable townfolk to defend themselves against invaders in hand-to-hand combat. Only in the relatively peaceful era of Cosimo de Medici (c. 1400 AD) were harbour towns considered safe enough for inhabitation except by garrisons.

On many hillside promontories are circular stone lookout towers. In Etruscan times, lookouts would build signal fires in the towers whenever Greek pirates were spotted. Townsfolk scrambled to the lookout towers or the fortress on the high peak above present day Portoferraio, and checked themselves in for the duration of a siege. The fortress at Volterraio, the only one on Elba never conquered, was over-built by Romans, and then again by the Italian princes. No one knows who constructed the internal aqueduct, but those lucky denizens could enjoy spring water from a source four miles away while comfortably keeping an eye on the harbor many miles below. It's clear why it went unvanquished after you spend a hot dusty morning trekking up the steep scree to explore the ancient stone castle perched on the mountain top.

The Etruscans (1000 BC-500 BC) were conquered by Romans, who mined the island for the plentiful minerals. Granite quarries supplied the emperors with stone for their ever greater tributes to themselves. It was fun to visit the Coliseum in Rome, having just paddled near the granite's source in Elba. The Romans were harassed by slave-seeking pirates from the African shores (Carthaginians and Saracens).

Romans built the first fortifications at Portoferraio, buildings still standing in sea water at the harbor mouth, a monument to their exquisite engineering.

By the medieval era (1000 AD to 1450 AD), city-states from Northern Italy lay claim to Elba's rich mineral stores and added to the fortifications surrounding the harbors. Marciana Marina harbor has a circular tower guarding its entrance, built about 1100 AD. The stone work survives intact today despite winter storm waves washing over the foundation. Cosimo, a Medici prince, ushered in the only period of security by bringing his navy to quell the pirates and ensure safe commerce by sea.

Cosimo built the wall around the town of Portoferraio and had his name engraved in the twin entrance gates. Two large fortresses, one star-shaped, housed his soldiers and anchored the town wall.

Napoleon's time on Elba was brief. Instead of sitting out his ten-month exile in one of his two palatial residences, he got to work as the governor and built roads connecting the many fishing villages with the main towns. He rode everywhere on horseback, supervising a massive upgrade of the infrastructure. Word has it that his sister Paulina was just as active, in her own right, creating a Napoleonic reputation for hijinks and nude sunbathing. Ultimately Elba was too small and peaceful for Napoleon, who took off to pursue his glorious destiny.
Copyright © 1998 Jan Sommer
Published August 15, 1998

More on Elba

• Elba - Sea Kayaking

• Background

Jan Sommer: Lives to travel. Loves birds, whales, icebergs. Canadian transplant to USA. Psychologist by trade. Owns four kayaks, speaks three languages, member of two kayak clubs, but single minded.

Questions about planning a similar trip? Comments for the author?
jsommer@coastside.net

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