Than Just Mountains

The Luzern Area

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uzern itself is the queen of the Vierwaldstättersee. Everyone will love the two covered wooden bridges, especially the "death" paintings. Walk the Musegg walls. Explore the Gletschergarten and the Hall of Mirrors. And of course, visit the adjacent Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument).

he National Transport Museum, just up the lake from Luzern a couple of kilometers, is a top-notch destination for virtually everyone, worth at least a half day even for bored adults, and a full day for those interested in (especially) trains, planes and other forms of transport.

he Pilatus excursion is fun for all. Go up the steepest rackrail to the top and descend via the cable cars to Kriens, providing a delicious variety.

ou're in Tell country so you can visit Altdorf with its Tell statue (and little else), the sunken road (Hohlegasse ... sunken lane) where Tell assassinated Gessler (according to legend) and the spot where Tell escaped during the storm. Then there's Rütli, the birthplace of the Swiss Confederation.

ake a ferry across the lake from Beckenreid to Gersau, which the kids have probably never done.

ake the Three-pass Drive over the Susten, Grimsel and Furka passes ... a three star attraction if there ever was one.

nd within a couple of hours of the lake, depending on where you are, one can visit on day trips the Jungfrau region, Gruyeres with its castle and cheese making demonstrations, the Rigi, Brienz and the Briezerrothorn

That's just a brief summary; there's more for sure, though these are probably the high points.

he Kappelbrücke (Chapel Bridge), dating from the early 1400s, had been the medieval original until early 1994 when careless workmen destroyed it by fire in 1993. The determined Swiss rebuilt it within several months. There's also a 'newer' covered bridge, the Spreuerbrücke, dating from 1408.

e find the Lion Monument more touching in person than in pictures. Visit the medieval city center while walking between bridge and Lion. The bridge is five minutes from the train station, the monument just ten minutes beyond that ... or longer if you're beguiled by the sights in between. In the old town you'll find the Altes Rathaus built in the early 17th century, the Weinmarkt and other interesting buildings, many half-timbered and gaily painted.

Not only is the Lion Monument of interest in itself, the setting is lovely. Adjacent is the Glacier Garden. Luzern was under several miles (yes, miles) of ice perhaps 10,000 years ago, and you'll find striking evidence of that in the garden.

In the old town you'll find the Altes Rathaus built in the early 17th century, the Weinmarkt and many other interesting buildings.

The Bourbaki Cyclorama is near the Lion. While not breathtaking by 21st century entertainment standards, it's a quite interesting cyclorama (circular painting) covering over 10,000 square feet of canvas, depicting the Franco-Prussian war. The 19th century equivalent of the History Channel. The entry fee is modest and the money well spent for your fifteen minute visit.

ake a short bus or boat trip from city center to the National Transport Museum. Great for kids from 3-103. Exhibits run from postal coaches to jets, with more trains than you'll see anywhere. Outside the museum you can soar to nearly 400 feet for a superb view of the city and lake from the tethered, helium-filled "HiFlyer". This is a world-class museum.

e advocate spending most of your time in Switzerland in the Alpine regions, but Luzern (or better, Weggis or Vitznau) makes a good base for day-tours, especially if you'll have a car. You're in the heart of central Switzerland and Tell country. You can easily reach Interlaken, Murten, Fribourg/Freiburg and Avenches, and as far as Gruyeres, by either train from Luzern or car from Weggis or Vitznau. Chillon is less than three hours of scenic driving from Luzern, and the Jungfrau region is less than three hours away by train, perhaps less by car.

Conversely, Luzern makes a good day trip from the Jungfrau region. We often do it from Mürren.

ake Luzern is lovely and has good boat services. You'll find nearby fine - if mid-sized - mountains including the Rigi, Pilatus and Titlis.

Our recommendation is Pilatus. While hardly a giant by Alpine standards,

• it provides a lovely view;
• the food is usually good at the top;
• it has two scenic approaches and thus the opportunity for a circle trip for those who hate to backtrack. The R/T price is CHF 59 (2001) whichever route you take, including the circle trip.

We most enjoy the cable car approach with three separate sections beginning in Kriens. Nothing wrong with walking down the last leg. Kriens is perhaps 10 minutes or so by from downtown Luzern. The number 1 bus runs every 10-15 minutes during peak times. Stops in the city include Schwanenplatz and the Bahnhof.

The rack rail from Alpnachstad is the steepest in Europe as well as one of the oldest. Alpnachstad is reached by boat (first stop out of Luzern) or train.

f you'll not make it to the Alps you may wish to visit TItlis in nearby Engelberg. It's a snow-covered 10,000 ft (3,000m) peak. Less than two hours to the summit of Kleintitlis from Luzern.

Rigi is "traditional", but we find it somewhat of a bore, and certainly overarched by Pilatus and Titlis.

ased in or near Luzern you're within easy reach of the famous and scenic 3-pass drive, over the Susten, Furka and Grimsel. (If you're uneasy about driving this yourself, or have no car, the Post Bus has often run tours including all or some of these passes. Suggest you contact the nearest Post or Tourism Office for information.)

For a more extended discussion of activities in the area for kids of all ages see Ideas and Tips ...   The city also has an excellent website.

Luzern hotels and restaurants

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