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The San Juan Mountains

Engineer Pass -
The Gateway to the
Alpine Loop Scenic Byway
  by Lyle Bungart

Ed has already described, far better than I can, the many delights of the San Juan Mountains, especially Ouray. For now, we’ll concentrate on one of several 4WD roads that originate in or near this delightful town, namely the Engineer Pass road over to Lake City.

Don’t attempt this road without a high-clearance four-wheel drive vehicle. I used a Jeep Cherokee. (For trips through the mountains in the family sedan see Driving the Mountains ... Without Bumps.)

To reach the Engineer Pass road, drive south out of Ouray on US550 about three miles. On the left, just beyond an inside bend, you’ll see the road, which may be marked as a Scenic Byway.

The first mile or so is mildly rough and rather tame, but it soon becomes a shelf road climbing steadily. The road hugs a rugged cliff and, down below, you’ll begin to spot bits and pieces of old mining operations in the mixed pine and aspen forest.

Take your time and stop for pictures unless you’re unfortunate enough to be followed or encounter a vehicle coming towards you.

The hairpin turns begin to multiply as you proceed. On some of them it appears the lower level road ends, while you chug up a rocky ridge and turn on to the next higher section. About midway to the top of the pass the road levels off on a small plateau and here you’ll find a most surprising edifice, a solar-powered modern outhouse erected, I suppose, by one of the commercial Jeep tour companies operating out of Ouray. This is a good place to relax or do a bit of wilderness walking. High above you and to your left you’ll spot the continuation of the Engineer Pass road as it climbs above timberline.

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At several points along the way to the summit there will be side roads branching off. Some of them lead to old mining operations and may well be worth exploring, but the main pass road is fairly well marked. This is also a good time to keep an eye on the weather as roads above timberline can be daunting in mountain storms. The pass is 12,800 ft. high and at, or near, the summit there is a small road perched on a narrow ridge leading to a lookout spot. If you can stand the eternal winds here, the view is well worth the effort. You are looking at the heart of the San Juan mountain range.

The descent is a snap compared to the first half of the road although you may still have to dodge (or get out and move) large boulders. You’ll see lots more old mining buildings, plus a few streams, lakes and waterfalls. The route follows the north bank of Henson Creek most of the way into Lake City. A stop at an outdoor café there for coffee and pastry (or something stronger, depending upon the condition of your nerves) is a fitting end to an outstanding drive.

The return to Ouray can be accomplished by one of three alternatives. If you’ve still not had your fill of 4WD roads, drive past Lake San Cristobal and take the Cinnamon Pass road. The tamest, and longest, return route is to go north on CO149, branch off on the Blue Mesa shortcut to US50 and return via Montrose and US550. A more scenic variation of that is to drive the Owl Creek Pass Road (4WD not required) from where it heads south off US50 just east of Cimarron. A good road atlas helps. I use the Colorado Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme Mapping.

I’ll throw in a few hints of which you are probably already aware. Regardless of how warm it is in Ouray, take some warm clothing along. Remember that, on Colorado mountain roads, the vehicle heading uphill always has the right of way. Clearances and road conditions may dictate a compromise to that, though. If you’re traveling in early summer or fall make sure that the road is open (and will stay that way). Local inquiry will be helpful. Be sure your vehicle is in good condition, with a full gas tank. Take along some coffee or bottled water, a few snacks and carry out all your trash.

Without question, the most spectacular scenery occurs when the aspen change to variations of gold and orange. This can occur anytime after early September, although it was September 30th when I drove the Engineer Pass road. The change usually occurs first at the higher elevations. The aspen may be green in Ouray and golden a few thousand feet higher up. It’s not out of the question, though, to have heavy snow in the higher elevations by the first of October so, again, be sure to check locally.

I mentioned the Cinnamon Pass Road earlier. Taken from Lake City, it will go over a 12,620 ft. high point before descending and joining another road which gives you the option of going to either Silverton or Ouray. Another 4WD road crosses over Imogene Pass from Ouray to Telluride and is notable, not only for its history, but also for the many stream crossings on the Ouray side. There’s lots more scenery to be enjoyed from a high-clearance vehicle. In mid -July the drive through acres of wildflowers in the Yankee Boy Basin is magnificent. The Ophir Pass road is yet another way to get from Ouray to Telluride without quite as many thrills as the Imogene Pass road. So many opportunities – such a short summertime in which to enjoy them.
Copyright © 1998 Lyle Bungart
Published July 10, 1998

More on the San Juans

Lyle is a bona-fide mountain nut of some 74 years standing. Having first gazed in awe at the Rocky Mountains during a brief posting in Colorado Springs in 1942, he returned frequently. Some of these trips were
vacations, but two were colossal failures in finding a job that would permit him to relocate. Undaunted, he retired and moved there eight years ago. He claims to have traveled more Colorado roads than most natives. He first toured the San Juans in commercial Jeeps, later rented them, then bought them. At last count, he's on his third Cherokee, none of which were damaged on 4WD roads
... so far.

Questions about planning a similar trip? Comments for the author?
lyleab@pipeline.com


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