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ost of our favorite 'ghost towns' (relics of villages, mines, mills, railroads and
the like) are reachable in ordinary family vehicles. You'll probably find a visit to
several of these among your favorite things to do in the San Juans. Sometimes a little
easier in a 4WD, but most, as we say, can be done in your car.That said, we do enjoy driving the trails about as much as
visiting the relics of the past. You'll find the following introduction to 'Jeeping'
helpful in getting you started. And if you are new to the activity, do check out our 4WD Tips.
here are many reasons to visit the
area. For us the mountains are the treasure and a four-wheel drive vehicle the "open
sesame." If you've not driven off-road before, you owe yourself the experience. And this
is the place to try it out!
e found our first day out in the
mountains amusing, and instructive as to the need for good directions or maps.
o near the
top and yet so far. "How about that last track back 50 yards?"
"Unlikely," I said, but we retraced our path and gave it a go.
Another dead end. What now, clinging
to the mountainside at 10,000 feet?
"There's a trace of a route over
to the left," Julie said. Inching our way along, in just a few minutes an impassable snow bank blocked the way.
Again backtracking, we returned to
where we had last seen the marmot. "Where's Hurricane
Pass?" The marmot knew. But the only answer was a beady-eyed stare and yet another
warning whistle.
This sentry was following his orders.
We'd get no advice from him today.
We've done Hurricane many times now
and wonder how we missed the trail. Although, it is a bit obscure and a more
careful reading of the map would have saved the day. Don't go into the mountains without a
map.
e're used to
walking in the Swiss Alps; we love getting away from the crowds and finding spectacular
viewpoints. We approached the idea of Jeeping with some skepticism. Short story made
shorter: two days of planned four-wheeling turned into four, and would have been more if
had we not run out of time.
Even if you sniff at riding as
opposed to walking in the mountains, give Jeeping a try. If you're late-middle-aged as we
are, San Juan walks turn into honest-to-goodness hard, vertical hiking. With no fixed
mountain transport available, it's walking all the way from trailhead to trail's end ...
or ride. At that, many of the more interesting hikes require a high-clearance vehicle to
get to a good starting point.
If you have ecological concerns
about Jeeping in the wilderness, remember that most of these trails were cut a century ago
for mining access. Most of the off-roaders are as concerned about not marring the fragile
Alpine tundra as any environmentalist and scrupulously stay on the existing trails.
And disregard any notions you might
have about Jeeping being an exercise only for 'mountain men' full of testosterone, with
their Jeeps laden with winches, Hi-Jacks and tow ropes. That applies to some, but even
here, most, if not all, do it responsibly. For us the attraction is not the danger and
skillful maneuvering out of tight spots, but the mountain scenery, the marmots and other
wildlife, and the chance to explore rapidly disappearing mines,
mills and ghost towns.
f you have your
own 4x4 make sure it has high clearance with true
four-wheel drive that includes a "4-Low" gear range, unless you'll restrict
yourselves to the spots we indicate can be driven in your car.
A low-slung family car, SUV (or
even most 'trucks') with "all-wheel-drive" won't do the job on steep sections.
If you've not driven in the mountains off-road before, please read
our tips before starting out. Even if you have some off-road experience, take a look
at these reminders anyway; there are few parts of the country with similar trails, ecology
and history. It deserves to be treated with care.
ental firms
also run half-day and full-day tours. Typical rates run from $40 for some half-day tours
up to $95 or so for the Black Bear trip. If you're uncomfortable driving mountains,
narrow roads and a manual shift, you'll find a tour more enjoyable.
Jeep Wrangler
is the typical rental (4 seats) and a 5-passenger Cherokee may be available. Common rates
are $110/day for the Wrangler and $130 for the Cherokee. Half-day and one week rentals are
available.
The Wrangler is basic but very
capable and agile. A short wheelbase, high clearance and high approach and departure
angles make trail driving much easier. Short of a Humvee or a custom job, it's probably
the best there is for these trails. We recommend asking for a rental with the sides down,
but that's a personal decision.
Switzerland
of America Tours and Colorado West were recommended equally to us by knowlegable locals. We
chose Switzerland of America. The vehicles were new Wranglers and Cherokees in excellent
condition. The staff were friendly, knowledgeable and helpful to Jeeping neophytes. They
generously suggested scenic routes and provided detailed mapping. (1-800-432-JEEP (5337),
or 1-970-325-4484). New owners in 1999, highly regarded by local residents, and reputed to
be extremely 'customer friendly'.
Colorado West (1-970-325-4014 or
1-800-648-JEEP) features Wranglers and comes well-recommended. If you're taking a tour
there is a difference between the two operators. Switzerland of America uses open
vehicles; Colorado West uses enclosed Suburbans. We would choose the open vehicle
ourselves, as we like the feel of being out in the mountains, even if riding.
Others may feel a bit more comfortable on narrow mountain roads in an enclosed vehicle, or
may worry about the possibility of rain.
By the way, the number of rental
vehicles in town is relatively small; advance reservations may be helpful.
or those doing their own driving, we have a few thoughts
and tips on off-road, mountain driving which are particularly important to know in
this area. Please take a look at them before blazing your way into this beautiful and
fragile area.
It May Be Addictive!
t
was the third day of our first experiences Jeeping. We turned the rental in at 4 o'clock
following Ophir/Imogene. Julie was a bit frazzled from three days on rough and precipitous
roads, and the Imogene descent. As chance would have it, we dined at a restaurant next to
Switzerland of America. By the time dinner (and a Margarita) were under our belts, Julie
was ready for more! At her suggestion we went next door and signed up for another day of
four-wheeling. As you might guess, we traded our sedan for an SUV shortly after we got
home!
With hundreds
of miles of trails, there are many options. We've listed a few of the more popular and scenic routes.
Four-Wheeling Resources
- GPS San Juan Waypoints
4WD Adventures: Colorado - Unquestionably the most
comprehensive guide to four-wheel adventures in Colorado. Sections cover getting you and
your car ready for 4WD adventures, extensive background on towns, ghost towns, people and
events that have shaped the state; animals, plants. 16 detailed routes in or near the San
Juans. All routes include detailed maps, driving directions and GPS waypoints. Other books
contain a bit more of this or of that, but this book is the single most comprehensive
coverage of all topics. A trifle pricey, if you only want to buy a single book, this is
it.
Guide
to Colorado Backroads & 4-Wheel Drive Trails - Excellent
trail guides to over 60 Colorado routes, including 18 in the San Juans; detailed route
maps. The best specific coverage of the San Juan routes.
Southern
Colorado 4-Wheeling - The San Juans - Descriptions and maps
of 25 routes in the area, the most extensive route coverage.
Colorado Byways - Backcountry drives for the whole family - 80 of Colorado's best adventure roads. Maps and descriptions sometimes
limited, but the coverage of Colorado routes is the most extensive.
In addition to the four books above, Smith's
books contain extended background on many of the areas you'll visit while traveling
off-road.
- Latitude 40° - Telluride
Silverton Ouray - Recreation Topo Map covering these towns and the
surrounding areas including Lizard Head and Mt. Sneffels Wildernesses. By far the most
useful map of the area. Available in many area stores.
- Silverton, Ouray, Telluride,
Lake City Colorado from Trails Illustrated, 1992/95 (ISBN 0925873926 -
Adventurous Traveler item # 2538.) Hiking map at 1:66,667 scale with 80 foot contour
intervals; waterproof and tearproof; based on USGS info and other US agencies. Also useful
for four-wheeling, and in fact indispensable unless you carry several USGS 7.5-minute
quadrangles. Other maps in the series cover adjacent areas and other areas of interest to
four-wheelers. Available from Adventurous
Traveler Bookstore.
Colorado
Atlas and Gazetteer - Complete road maps of the state at a scale of
1:160,000. Not as useful for four-wheeling as a more-detailed map (as above) but the only
resource available for some areas.
- Maptech Terrain Navigator: Colorado/Telluride - 300 USGS topographic maps on CD-ROM in both
1:24,000 and 1:100,000 scale. This volume covers the entire San Juans Available from Adventurous Traveler Bookstore.
4-Wheel Freedom: The Art of Off-Road Driving - Useful for beginners and experienced hands alike.
Jeep Owner's Bible - Getting the most from your Jeep.
- 4X4 NOW - A useful site with a collection of information
relating to four-wheeling, including a selection of books, maps and videos.
San Juan Visitor Information
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Last Revision: October 2, 2001
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