The unique stony shell lime underlying the soil
provides an ideal basis for producing crisp whites. The city's history is firmly linked to
wine production, and we read from annals of 1476: "The greatest part of the
population earns its living by growing wine." As recently as the 17th century brewing
beer was forbidden so as to assist the struggling vintners.
More recently the limestone has
become the basis for the production of gypsum (e.g. sheetrock) and Iphofen is the
headquarters of the largest West European gypsum firm, Knauf. Thus, one finds the motto
decorating the building above: "Wein Gips und Holz sind
Iphofens Stolz" -- translated as: "Wine, plaster (gypsum) and timber (as
in half-timbered) are Iphofen's pride."
ith such a
rich history, a guided tour of the town is a good idea. From
Easter to mid November weekly tours are conducted on Saturdays at 10:30AM and last 90
minutes. Also on Sundays in May/June and September/October. (Cost: DM2.50.)
You may join these without prior
arrangement by meeting in front of the Tourist Office, though note the tours are conducted
in German. You can arrange for the same tour at any other time and in English by making
prior arrangements through the Tourist Office. The tours cost DM25 (total per group) for
from 1 to 15 persons. For larger groups DM2.50 per person. Usually these tours start in
front of the Rathaus but guests can be met at their hotel or any other location as well.
 here are a number of small hotels and
guesthouses. We stayed at the Gasthof Goldene Krone, the pink building to the right of the Rathaus at the end of the central
square. The food is hearty and excellent. The Rosskopf family wines (they own and operate
the hotel) have consistently won awards year in and year out.
Doubles at the Goldene Krone  with bath and
breakfast run from DEM100 double, DE70 single -- the best room in the house is #11 at
DEM140/night. (2001 prices -- about EUR36 to EUR72.) (The   Zehntkeller is a bit more upscale with
doubles starting at DM180 (EUR92.03); others in town slide down the price scale.) Room reservations are a good idea, particularly on many weekends.
There's little English spoken at the
hotel, but a few words of English, a few words of German, and the helpful staff's gestures
and friendly smiles made our stay quite pleasant. Unless you speak German, we suggest
making reservations by fax. (No problems with
written-English requests and replies.)
(Tel: 49 9323 33 30 Fax: 49 9323 63 41)
While there's no
need to eat anywhere else than the Goldene Krone (as the crowds will attest) it's hard to
find a bad meal in Iphofen, or Franconia. The food at the Romantik Hotel Zehntkeller is
reputedly excellent; we had neither time nor purse to sample.
Among other commendable sampled
restaurants: the Würzburger Hof in Kitzingen (Jägerbraten was outstanding) and the
Weisses Ross in Iphofen (both quite inexpensive for Germany, about DM40-45 for a hearty
meal and a glass of wine). Want a break from hearty Bavarian food? A good Italian
restaurant, O Sole Mio, is just five minutes from Iphofen in Grosslangheim.
 he justly famous medieval preserve of
Rothenburg ob
der Tauber (its Rathaus to the left) is only 30 minutes away, Nürnberg 60, and
perhaps two more hours to München. In Rothenburg you may enjoy a meal at he
Baumeisterhaus on Obere Schmidgasse, just off the main square. Very atmospheric and
excellent food; a bit expensive, but good value-for-money.
There's a great deal to see in the
triangle between Würzburg, Bamberg and Iphofen. A bit further
southward at the end of the Romantic Road lie King Ludwig's castles. Sights around Iphofen are as enjoyable as any in the world.
Note that the Iphofen train station, as in many small German cities, is more tram
stop than Hauptbahnhof and is at the edge of town. |
A shelter on one
side, a ticket vending machine, a place to cross the tracks. (The old station is now an
office for the Knauf firm.) No lockers; no taxis. |
he
excellent German rail system serves
Iphofen with hourly service in each direction between Nürnberg and Würzburg. Würzburg
is the second stop from Frankfurt, a 90-minute trip; a quick change and you're in Iphofen
in less than 30 minutes more. A car, however, is a better tool for seeing the area sights.
Approaching from Kitzingen you'll see
the town walls and skyline before you
arrive.The center of town is an easy one kilometer walk (10-15 minutes) -- bear to
your right leaving the station area walking toward the highway and follow the path to your
left to the underpass. Follow the sidewalk along Bahnhofstrasse until you come to an
opening in the town walls, a hundred yards or so beyond the post office. Follow this
somewhat winding street for a couple of hundred yards past the churches and shortly after
it narrows considerably you'll be in the town square.
Time Zone
Germany is in the Central European Time Zone,
CET, one hour east (later) of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). In the summer this difference
changes to two hours. Roughly speaking the sun rises six hours earlier in Iphofen than New
York City. If you'd like a bit of help in figuring the time difference between your home
and Germany check out the Time
Zone Converter |
ou'll find directions for driving to
Iphofen and our thoughts on driving in Germany in Iphofen by Car.
North Americans, for some reason, believe driving in Germany to be high-risk. We don't
find that at all true.
Ed found driving in Germany on all
kinds of roads quite enjoyable. Julie had her teeth unclenched by the time our flight to
New York had reached 10,000 feet! Seriously, there's no reason to avoid the autobahns or
driving in Germany at all. Germans are surely the best drivers in Europe.
e're often asked about appropriate clothing for a visit to Europe. Put briefly, what you'd wear back
home in the same situation and kind of place generally works well in Europe. If you've
more questions about this you may find our notes on Dressing
for Success helpful.
 |
Current Weather
Conditions |
ased on visits at the ends of March
and September we'd guess Franconian weather is similar to
what you'd find in New Hampshire, for example. They seem to get more clouds and rain than
we're used to in the US Midwest, at least in the early Spring and early Fall.
olidays, at least
unexpected ones, can spoil a vacation. This link will fill
you in on holidays in Germany which, as in most of Europe, are greater in number than in
the US.
The tourist
office will be quite helpful with information about Iphofen and the immediate area. For
specific information about other destinations -- for example, Würzburg, Bamberg, Rothenburg or
the Royal
Castles area, see their respective web sites. |
 he staff at the Iphofen Visitor Office
will be pleased to help make your visit to Iphofen as enjoyable as possible and speaks and
writes English quite well. The office is located around the corner from the town square on
the street running off the left of the square just before the courtyard in front of the
Rathaus.
(By e-mail: verkehr@t-online.de,
or at
Marktplatz 26, 97346 IPHOFEN;
phone: 011-49-9323-8715 44,
fax: 9323-8715 55.)
 |
Einersheimer
Gate |
ecorded
history for Iphofen dates to 741. After growing for six centuries the settlement became,
officially, a city, more than a century before Columbus tripped over the Americas.
Technically the community remains a
city (Stadt.) From a size standpoint it is more a "town" or large
"village" in English. In 1972 the six adjacent villages were placed under the
Stadt's administrative responsibility. Iphofen proper has a population of around 3,000,
with another 1,500 citizens living in the incorporated communities.
Iphofen's past, as Franconia's, is
full of strife:
 |
In the 16th century
its citizens experienced firsthand the turmoil of the Peasants' Wars, and saw more
hardship during the Thirty Years War a century later. |
 |
In 1632 alone the
town was looted 14 times, and the few remaining residents took shelter in the forests. As
throughout Europe, the Plague ravaged the town several times. |
 |
The mayor was
kidnapped in 1759 by a group of Prussian soldiers and held for ransom under threat of
burning the tow. The Emperor's troops saved the mayor, though not the money. |
 |
Control of the city
passed from the Electorate of Bavaria to Prussia in 1805, then back to Bavaria in August
of 1806. In September of the same year Iphofen again became Prussian, until November when
Napoleon took control. In 1809 Austria first ruled, then again France, and then Bavaria.
In 1812 French and Russian troops marched back and forth through (and over) the town. |
More recently, the death toll of the
two World Wars brought more tragedy.
Happily the last 50 years have been more calm.
Out of the tragedies of the past the town and its citizens honor their heritage while
looking to the future.
f awakening to a hearty German
breakfast and a stroll on the moat around medieval walls overshadowed by a hillside of
grapevines, or a journey through time along cobblestoned streets lined with half-timbered
buildings, is your idea of getting away from it all, you'll love Iphofen. It's like heaven
with two Autobahns 15 minutes away!
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