Rome Walks - Art and a Stroll - The Spanish Steps and More

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and a Stroll,Spanish Steps, Piazza di Spagna, Capuchin Crypt, Santa Maria della Concezione, Pincio, Palazzo Barberini

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Art and a Stroll
Palazzo Barberini, Capuchin Crypt (Santa Maria della Concezione), Pincio, Spanish Steps & Piazza di Spagna

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Palazzo Barberini (National Gallery)

ake yourself to the Piazza Barberini. Find via del Quattro Fontane, on the SE corner.

A short way up the street on the left, you'll find the Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica (National Gallery of Old Art) which has paintings by (mainly) Italian masters from the 13th to the 17th century. It doesn't look like a museum, by the way - it's in the first (upper) floor of the Palazzo Barberini.

There are a number of first rate pieces here, to this unpracticed eye. The two masterpieces are Raphael's famous La Fornarina, and the oft-reproduced portrait of English Henry VIII, by a Dutch artist, Hans Holbein. (Despite the collection's intent (Italian artists), when they get a good one, they show it!). The museum's disappointingly small and will take less than an hour to visit.

Capuchin Crypt (Santa Maria della Concezione)

Crossing the street just past the Bernini Bristol, you'll notice a little fountain with a bee motif, the Barberini family symbol. The Barberini gave the world a pope or two as well as appropriating land, monuments, and art works. On the statue a Latin epigram translated as "That which the barbarians didn't do, the Barberini did." Remembering, of course, Rome was often sacked by barbarians.

aving seen fine works of Italian art, one may wish for a little relief. See what the Capuchin monks can do . Go back to Piazza Barberini, cross the street in front of the Bernini Bristol Hotel (noting the famous Neptune Fountain) and go up the hill on via Veneto.

very short walk up the street on your right, you'll find an innocuous little church, whose entrance is up a flight of stairs, Santa Maria delle Concezione. This is the home church of the Capuchin order. Once inside you'll immediately recognize, undoubtedly, the color of the monks' habits as the derivation of the name for Cappuccino coffee.

The monks used to bury all their brothers in the basement. (More properly called a crypt.) An old order, they eventually ran out of burial space. What to do?

How about a chapel of tastefully arranged pelvises? Perhaps one of shoulder blades? Would vertebrae make a delicate ceiling decoration? Why not?

Despite what you may think, the displays are not especially morbid. You'll find a visit to this church, accompanied by a small donation to the benefit of the Capuchins, interesting. You'll have proof that Rome has attractions to offer that can't be matched in any other city!

Pincio

Courtesy of and © Romanhomes

ross the via Veneto and take via Cappuccini down to via Sistina. Take a right on via Sistina and stroll on the narrow sidewalks. You'll find some interesting shops along the way. At the end of the street you'll come to a square atop the Spanish Steps, and to your right the Hassler Hotel. (Arguably #1 in Rome.) Continue past the Hassler (if the weather is decent) and go down the lane into the Villa Borghese, big park, from the property of Lucretia Borgia's family.)

Going past the Casina Valadier some distance, you'll come to the Pincio, an outlook at a wall to your left over the city. You can see nearby below the Piazza del Popolo and its gate, and in the far distance a view of the Vatican and the dome of St. Peter's.

Piazza di Spagna & Spanish Steps

etrace your route and go down the Spanish Steps. If the weather's decent, sidewalk vendors hawking their wares may well fill the steps. At Christmastime you'll also find a large Neapolitan Christmas display, perhaps with musicians.

t the foot of the steps, you're in Piazza di Spagna, the heart of English Rome. To your left is the house where the English poet Keats died of tuberculosis in 1899. Babbington's Tea Room is to your right. A lovely fountain by Bernini is in front of you. Straight ahead is the most elegant (and expensive) shopping street in the world, via Condotti. To the left of Condotti are vias Fratina and Borgogna which are filled also with excellent shops. Have a tea in Cafe Antico Greco a few doors down on the right of Condotti. Roman stores close for 2 to 3-1/2 hours somewhere between Noon and 3:30. Tie in shopping on via Condotti with either this short itinerary, or the next, walked in reverse.

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