The Swiss Alps - Europe's Best Mountains - Berner (Bernese) Oberland - The Jungfrau Massiff Region

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(Jungfrau Region)
"Best Of Breed"

Continued from Page 1 of the Berner Oberland

The Communities
(Mürren, Wengen, Grindelwald, Gimmelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Wilderswil, and Interlaken),
in our order of preference:

Mürren (Murren, Muerren) (1639 Meters/5377 Feet)

is the jewel of the mountains, small and car-free. Though there are less than 500 residents, it boasts over 2,000 beds, mainly in holiday apartments and private homes, most unused in the summer. You'll find two 4-star hotels, several 3-star, and a couple of very recommendable 2-stars. As well as a 'B & B' or two.

Less well-known than Grindelwald and Wengen, Mürren is more rewarding because of its intimate size and unique site. The view of the massif and valley from Mürren is both spectacular and unique. The views from Wengen and Grindelwald are good, but really not comparable to Mürren's. The additional altitude and 'in-your-face' proximity add a dimension to the panorama that is rare anywhere.

Be sure and get on the front half of the train in Interlaken Ost if you're going to Mürren, Lauterbrunnen, Gimmelwald, Stechelberg or Wengen; the back half goes to Grindelwald.

The approach to Mürren is spectacular. First a steep, nine-minute funicular, followed by a leisurely and scenic fifteen-minute narrow-gauge train.

On the second, 'Panorama Trip', leg sit on the left side facing forward if possible. Soon after leaving the Grütschalp station you'll have a breathtaking view to your left of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. We enjoy making the trip in a car full of newcomers, waiting for the inevitable moment when, to a person, they rise to their feet, gasp and exclaim. Despite making the trip hundreds of times, we admit to still doing the same thing on less-crowded trips.

If you'd like, you can get a 'live cam' example of the unparalleled view from Mürren, from the Hotel Eiger. Don't forget the 7 hour time difference between the US East Coast and Switzerland.

It's the highest village in the Berner Oberland occupied all year, and sits on the edge of a shelf 800 meters high (one-half mile) atop a sheer wall rising from the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Take a look at our bird's eye view ... of the region for a more full appreciation of the splendid setting of the area.

In addition to scenic views and the splendid ride up to the village, it's other attractions include a large variety of walks across many ranges of difficulty, immediate access to the Schilthorn cable (and Gimmelwald/Stechelberg), the Almendhubel funicular and a size and appearance closer to what mountain villages in the area used to look like but no longer do ... except in Gimmelwald and Isenfluh.

A typical visitor comment:
You were right on the money. Grindelwald very touristy, but great hikes. Mürren and the valley by far the best place to stay. Quiet, peaceful and with many wonderful hikes. I am already planning my next trip to Mürren. gbourque@us.ibm.com -10/22/98

Larry Baker's trip report gives a good impression of the joy of visiting Mürren, even in the fall.

Mürren's Website | Mürren's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Wengen (1275 Meters/4183 Feet)

car-free village of 1,050 with a good view of the Jungfrau. The Männlichen cable gives access to a fine panorama (2239 Meters/7345 Feet), and the start of one of the most scenic and easier Alpine rambles to Kleine Scheidegg (2061 Meters/6761 Feet) where you'll find a close-up of the mountains and the Eigernordwand where over 50 climbers have died.

Wengen is our second choice for a base in the Jungfrau region. The setting a bit lower, the village thrice in size, the views excellent but not quite as good. As well, for hikers there are few walks. Overall, though, it is clearly preferable to any other village in the area except Mürren.

Gretchen Fifer's note gives a bit more insight into staying in Wengen.

Wengen's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Grindelwald (1034 Meters/3392 Feet)

raining to Grindelwald? The back half of the train goes there; the front half to Lauterbrunnen. Grindelwald, large for the mountains with 3,000 residents, allows cars. Good scenery and hiking, but crowded. The trip up to First (2171 Meters/7122 Feet) is excellent. There's a fine view of the massif, and the start of many classic walks. The Upper Grindelwald Glacier terminates a short distance from the village and has sports an unremarkable ice grotto. The Lower Grindelwald Glacier has carved a chasm one can visit; again, unremarkable.

Overall, while the view is good and excellent walks begin here, we'd rather visit on a day trip; it's too crowded, especially with cars, for us.

Grindelwald's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Gimmelwald (1367 Meters/4485 Feet)

djacent to Mürren, it offers those on a budget good views, and remarkably inexpensive sleeping. Access is a bit inconvenient, services few, but you'll find unbelievably low prices for a bed in the middle of paradise. If you're interested in a 'return' to the rustic Alps of an earlier era the village school has an interesting site including interesting descriptions of the seasons, month by month. Our friend Adrian von Greyerz has his own description of his idea of paradise, and you'll get yet another view of the village from Alex Galitsky.

Gimmelwald's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Lauterbrunnen (797 Meters/2615 Feet)

ou'll find five hotels, several campgrounds, and a small museum with vignettes of the valley history and earlier ways of life. Located in a deep, narrow, valley with sheer walls, there is no good view of the mountain peaks. The valley is famous for its 70+ waterfalls. (The name of the village and valley probably stems from dialect for 'loud waters.') Prices are a tad lower than the 'balcony' villages. The village is crowded much of the day, especially at and near the train station, with visitors transiting to/from Interlaken, Wengen and Mürren.
(Photo of Staubbach Falls taken from above Lauterbrunnen on the way to Wengen. Atop the shelf from which the waterfall drops is Mürren, overlooking the valley with a clear view to Jungfrau range. Courtesy of Joey J. Salonga.)

Lauterbrunnen's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Wilderswil (584 Meters/1916 Feet)

bout 3 km. south of Interlaken, Wilderswil is convenient to both the mountains and the "city" (Interlaken), but like Interlaken is outside the mountains. As in Lauterbrunnen you'll pay slightly less for your hotel here than in Interlaken or the mountain villages.

Wilderswil's Hotels | Oberland Activities

Interlaken (567 Meters/1860 Feet)

his small city makes its money from but is not in the mountains. The origin for mountain and lake trips it's not a key destination -- more a junction or place to visit briefly. Better to stay in one of the villages above. (Our favorite is Mürren.)

y the way, Interlaken has two rail stations, Interlaken West (West) and Interlaken Ost (East).

West is the first stop in town on the way from Bern, Brig and Spiez, is in the center of 'downtown' Interlaken and adjacent to the Thun boat station.

Interlaken Ost is three minutes by train to the east and the end of the main line. It is the terminal for trains from Luzern over the Brünig Pass/Meiringen/Brienz route, is near the Brienzersee boat station and is the starting point for the narrow-gauge trains into the Jungfrau region.

West is nearer the majority of the hotels, though several of the better hotels are located closer to Ost. If you're visiting the mountains you want to go to the Ost station; if you're going to a hotel, ask them which station to use.

he best thing about Interlaken is that it's the gateway to the magical mountains of the Jungfrau region, which is where we'd suggest you spend the majority of your time in the area. We enjoy visiting Interlaken but much prefer to rise and rest in the mountains.