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Switzerland On Your Own
A Paradise Full of Trains
by George H. Drury

Switzerland is a theme park for people who like trains, no matter what their degree of enthusiasm. Trains of different sizes, colors, and gradients take you to different parts of Switzer Land: Wine Land (the Rhône Valley), Cheese Land (Emmental and Gruyère), and The Real Matterhorn — and all of it looks like Heidi Land. Switzer Land has quaint villages, sophisticated cities, and dining and shopping that outclass anything you’ll find in an American theme park. The park staff are helpful and speak several languages, including English. Switzer Land is as clean as Disneyland.

Your first contact with this paradise might well be glossy tour brochures that promise you the great little alpine trains of Switzerland along with three square meals each day and a bed in a three-star hotel each night. You read further and discover that a deluxe motor coach will meet you at the Zürich airport and take you from one train to the next.

Well, that’s silly. If you’re going to ride trains in Switzerland, you don’t need a bus, which is what a deluxe motor coach is after you strip away the adjectives. What the brochures don’t tell you is that all those great little alpine trains connect with the hourly and half-hourly train services that blanket Switzerland, starting right at the Zürich and Geneva airports.

There are rail stations at those airports. You can walk right from the arrival hall to a train without even going outdoors. In 11 minutes from the Zürich airport you can be in downtown Zürich; in 2 hours you can be on a narrow gauge train heading for any of several world-famed mountain resorts. From the Geneva airport you can quickly reach all of western Switzerland. In less than 4 hours you can be looking at the Matterhorn, and in those 4 hours you will have seen lakes, rivers, gorges, and mountains.

How does all this work? It’s a combination of the Swiss transportation system and the Swiss Pass. Trains, buses, streetcars, and boats all connect with each other systematically, and the Swiss Pass lets visitors to Switzerland use the system to get just about anywhere. The transportation is documented in a three-volume set of timetables available at any Swiss rail station for 16 francs (about $9).

The thinnest volume of the three covers train service to points outside Switzerland; the thickest volume gives bus schedules. The third volume, almost as thick as the bus volume, covers trains, boats, funiculars, and aerial cable cars. The books are primarily in German, but there are explanatory notes in English. Language makes no difference in the numbers, and schematic maps help you find the timetable you want.

The Swiss Pass is a transportation ticket that is valid for 4, 8, 15, or 30 days of travel on Swiss railroads, postal buses, city buses, streetcars, and lake boats. In addition it yields a discount on most of the cog railways, funiculars, and aerial cable cars. While it’s possible to buy the Swiss Pass in the U.S., it costs less if you buy it in Switzerland — it’s available at principal rail stations (they accept credit cards). Reservations are necessary only on the Bernina Express and Glacier Express trains; otherwise simply board and choose a seat. Here is an eight-day, bare-minimum itinerary that will show you the best of Switzerland by train.

Day 1
Arrive Zürich, take the next train to Zürich Hauptbahnhof (HB, main station). From there take a train at 10 minutes past the hour to Chur — you’ll arrive at 44 past the next hour. Check into a hotel, then take a ride to Arosa. Trains depart at 52 minutes past each hour from the station forecourt and the ride takes an hour. At the station in Chur, get reservations for your Bernina Express and Glacier Express trips on days 2 and 3. (Those routes are also covered by unreserved local trains, should you be unable to get reservations.) Luncheon in the restaurant car of the Glacier Express also calls for a reservation.

Day 2
All-day round trip to Tirano, Italy, on the Bernina Express. It’s the best train ride in Europe. Enjoy lunch at an open-air cafe in Tirano. Swiss currency is accepted.

Day 3
Glacier Express to Brig. The climb over Oberalp Pass is steep enough to require assistance from cog rails in the middle of the track.

Day 4
Excursion to Zermatt and Gornergrat to see the Matterhorn. Trains to Zermatt depart from the street level platform at 23 past each hour. The ride takes about 80 minutes.

At Zermatt cross the street to the Gornergrat Railway station and buy a ticket to Gornergrat (showing your Swiss Pass will get you a discount). Nearly all the way up the Matterhorn, the icon of Switzerland, is visible from the train windows.

Day 5
Ride to Interlaken: Trains depart from the upper-level platforms on the hour. The climb to the Lötschberg Tunnel is spectacular — sit on the left if you can. Change trains at Spiez, 63 minutes from Brig. Trains depart almost immediately for Interlaken. If you miss the connection, relax with coffee or lunch in the station restaurant until the next train, which will be along in an hour.

Interlaken has two stations, West and Ost (East). Most of the hotels in Interlaken are nearer the West station. In the afternoon, explore the town or ride trains and funiculars to the mountain village of Mürren for a spectacular view of the Jungfrau massif: train to Interlaken West, train to Lauterbrunnen, funicular to Grütschalp, and another train to Mürren.

Day 6
If the weather is good, make an all-day trip to the highest underground station in the world (11,333 feet - 3,454 meters) via Interlaken Ost, Lauterbrunnen, and Kleine Scheidegg; return via Grindelwald instead of Lauterbrunnen. You’ll have to buy a ticket to Jungfraujoch. Your Swiss Pass gives you a discount, but it’s still expensive — and worth it.

Day 7
Take a morning train to Luzern (Lucerne). Trains depart Interlaken Ost on the half hour (there are connecting trains from Interlaken West) and take just under two hours for the trip alongside several lakes and over Brünig Pass.

Depending on the weather in Luzern, visit the Swiss Transportation Museum (take a route 6 or 8 trolleybus from the station — your Swiss Pass covers the fare) or board a boat at the station quay for Vitznau, about an hour down the Lake of the Four Woodland Cantons. At Vitznau, buy a ticket to the summit of Mount Rigi and down the other side to Arth-Goldau (your Swiss Pass gives you a discount). Ride a red train to the summit, spend some time there then ride a blue train down the other side to Arth-Goldau, where you can get a train back to Luzern (three trains each hour; travel time is 25 to 30 minutes).

Day 8
A train from Luzern at 10 past the hour will have you at the Zürich airport at 13 past the next hour.

Eight days is adequate to see Switzerland, but it’s nowhere near enough. There’s plenty to occupy you for two weeks and even bring you back again.

Copyright © 2001 George H. Drury

Switzerland by Train, Boat, Cable, Bus
Switzerland and Beyond - A Primer on Using Swiss Rail
Sample Day and Extended Trips
Swiss Rail Passes
Switzerland's Scenic Trains
Switzerland by Rail
Daytrips - Switzerland

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geodrury@execpc.com

George Drury has been traveling by train on his own and as a group tour leader throughout North America and Europe since 1961. He has written rail travel articles for Trains Magazine, Vintage Rails, International Railway Traveler, and Rail Travel Newsletter. During his tenure at Kalmbach Publishing Co., publisher of Trains and Model Railroader magazines, he compiled or edited most of the books in Kalmbach's Railroad Reference Series.

George is also the author of The Railfan Guide to Germany, The Railfan Guide to Britain and Ireland and, most important to us, The Railfan Guide to Switzerland. If you're not yet a railroad enthusiast, Switzer Land is the best place to start a new hobby. Whether new to enjoying railroads or an old hand, the Railfan Guide is invaluable in getting the most out of your time on and around Switzerland's railroads.

We're grateful to George for providing this article for our readers.


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Published August 16, 2001

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